I don't see how this would be difficult. Just get a pattern, maybe in an arc patter and make a jig and proceed to drill. You could do this to a new rotor and machine it.

Just a thought, but I might be a complete idiot also.

later

 

yeah anybody got any tips? i could make a cnc program that would whip these babies out, i've thinking about slotting them but drilling would be easier....i understand if done wrong you'll eat pads

 

if you warp the rotors you will have to buy new ones. you cant turn slotted or drilled rotors. they are horrible when warped too. every time i have to stop from above 50, my cd player skips. thats how bad they vibrate. plus they toar apart my calipers and pads.

 

Rotor cross-drilling is purely "cosmetic"... there is no real benefit with modern brakes. And, drilling, even by professionals like Baer, can produce severe cracking of the rotors. Check out the pic's at WS6.com of cracked Baer cross-drilled rotors for an example of what can go wrong with only 4K miles on the rotors.

 

So stay with your regular run of the mill rotors? I do nothing but street driving with mine and I understand that asthetically slotted is better, but even with the cryos and regular pads, have they no use other than looks? My fronts are warped and I'm replacing them, so I guess what I'm asking is am I just paying someone(Baer) to drill and slot rotors so that they look good with limited reliability?

Just a thought

Joe

 

A practical alternative to cross-drilled is "dimpled". Looks like a hole in the rotor, but it only gets milled 1/2-way into the surface, not all the way through. Slots are similar in this respect. They don't go through the full thickness, and they don't promote cracking.

 

If you are going to drill your rotors, when you are done you should balane them or you might have warped rotor symptoms, even when not braking. Might be easier, and safer to just buy drilled rotors