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Replacing airbag steering wheel.

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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 11:25 PM
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RCJim's Avatar
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Arrow Replacing airbag steering wheel.

I have a 96 Camaro and I want to replace the steering wheel in it with an aftermarket one, I have done this MANY times in the past on "non" airbag vehicles but this is new to me....

I found several steering wheels I really like and I have seen a few cars on here that have had them replaced...

How do you disarm and remove the airbag?
Will the airbag light always be on?
Will the passenger side bag still function?

What all do I need to know and what do I do?

I am a "dare I say it" Ford Cetified Mechanic and did that very thing for several years but never messed with airbags.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 12:03 PM
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TTT
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 01:29 PM
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I can be some help, I just installed a Sparco steering wheel in my car. Disarming the airbag is simply disconnecting the battery and unplugging the Yellow airbag wire under the dash. It WILL disarm both airbags when you pull the drivers bag. I wouldn't recommend taking the bag out unless you have a well secured 5 pt harness. You don't need it, there are millions of cars out there without them, but the stiff wheel won't collapse like a factory non-airbag wheel if you hit it. Thats my safety disclaimer. Installing the wheel is cake, just find a hub to match your wheel brand, Grant uses their own hub, Sparco and Momo use Momo hubs. Just disconnect the stock wheel, bolt on the hub, and bolt on the wheel. Its a 20 minute job. When you bolt on the hub, make sure you only bolt it down to 15lbft, the hub can be stripped if you over torque it. My momo hub didn't fit perfect, I had to grind about 3 millimeters of the back of the hub off because it was digging into the column when I bolted it down. No big deal. I am trying to find a way to trick the PCM into thinking the drivers bag is still there so The passenger bag will work. If I can't get it to work I am pulling the passenger bag to save weight. If the bag light is a problem just pull the bulb from the dash. If you have any questions feel free to email me, you won't find much on any of the boards in terms of people who have done it, I couldn't. But the best place to post questions is the Drag Racing sections of the boards, they can be helpful, Here's a pic installed.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...79388431vGGdgz
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:04 PM
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Thank you for the info. It is very much appreciated!

Here is a reply I got on another forum -

Yes it can be done. You need to get a steering wheel adaptor for a 3rd gen Camaro before they had airbags, 89 or older. To keep the light from going on you need to put in a resistor that is the same resistance as the airbag.. I think it is a 1k ohm or 5k ohm, I cant remember. Your passenger side airbag should still work with this arrangement.
Have you heard of this method before?

The inside of your car looks great, here are the seats I am getting. They are made by 3A Racing.



How did you get the correct brackets for the seats?

Last edited by RCJim; Jul 14, 2003 at 05:10 PM.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:23 PM
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Yeah thats exactly right. Ask for an 87-89 hub, you can get it from here:
http://www.sportscar-parts.com/steering_wheels.html
I have had good experience from them, I got my seats from them too. The resistor to kill the light is correct, but it is questionable whether or not it will keep the passenger bag working since the only way to know is to get in a wreck.
Those are good seats, I have sat in them. They are a little tight if your a bigger guy. I question the quality of their leather though, the ones I sat in were worn at the bolsters. But I don't remember how long the guy had them. Make sure you fit in the seats before you get them, I speak from experience. As for brackets, I got Sparco universal sliders that were a serious PITA. Turns out the width of the bottom seat mounts is the same width as the stock seats. So I simply drilled some new holes in the factory non-power sliders and they went right in (lost $100 on the sliders though )

Good luck
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:27 PM
  #6  
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Thanks again for the information, I am a bigger guy and will try the seats again before I lay down the dough. It is great to know that the stock sliders will work by simply re-drilling holes!

I also wanted to tell you - I too, LOVE Transformers!

Here is a recent pic of my collection!



Anyway - Thanks again for the info, I appreciate it.

I have a grant hub from my 92 GMC Jimmy and a Like New Black Grant Wheel aswell but I am wanting something with a larger diameter and an updated look.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:45 PM
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Originally posted by RCJim
Thanks again for the information, I am a bigger guy and will try the seats again before I lay down the dough. It is great to know that the stock sliders will work by simply re-drilling holes!

I also wanted to tell you - I too, LOVE Transformers!

Here is a recent pic of my collection!



Anyway - Thanks again for the info, I appreciate it.

I have a grant hub from my 92 GMC Jimmy and a Like New Black Grant Wheel aswell but I am wanting something with a larger diameter and an updated look.
Sweet, people freak when I told them selling 1/2 my sealed transformer collection paid for my 02 SS I've decided to stop collecting vintage stuff until the hype and prices go down. Fortunately there is plenty reissue stuff to get in the meantime. $$$$ BTW, using the stock sliders worked on my Sparcos, I am not sure if they will work on other seats. Measure the location of the mounts on the bottoms of the stock seats, and check it against the measurements of whatever seats you get. That will tell you whether you need brackets or not. I actually like the small 13 inch steering wheels, since getting the Sparco my SS's stock wheel feels like it came out of a schoolbus lol.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 05:49 PM
  #8  
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Sealed G1 TF's are money in the bank...

I removed all of mine from the boxes and sold the boxes to buy more TF's - People pay mad cash for the boxes alone. I just dont have the room to keep them all sealed. The re-issues are a God Send!


I'll be sure to double check the 3A seats against my stockers for compatability.
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