ODB1 98+ SS Wing- ABS INOP. Anyone Figure this Out COMPLETELY?
ODB1 98+ SS Wing- ABS INOP. Anyone Figure this Out COMPLETELY?
Hey guys.
I know about the two differnt methods that were talked about.
The resistor method now, after i saw what JetMan was saying, there was still people that couldnt get it to work.
My question is,is there anyone that did this recently and was successful and could tell me EXACTLY what i need and what to do? That damn light is getting annoying!
Thanks guys!
I know about the two differnt methods that were talked about.
The resistor method now, after i saw what JetMan was saying, there was still people that couldnt get it to work.
My question is,is there anyone that did this recently and was successful and could tell me EXACTLY what i need and what to do? That damn light is getting annoying!
Thanks guys!
The third brake light is a different resistance than the 98+, disables the ABS. I have the fix on my car. I basically bought a relay from Radio Shack, someone on the board told me about it. Unfortunately the write up I did vanished along with my old website, and I can't remember part numbers.
I've been through this with a couple guys here trying to help them out and both ended up using the relay version because they kept burning up resistors experimenting with the "exact" necessary resistance reading. Too much or little resistance and it either FRIES or doesn't put out the light.... I only know of one guy to successfuly used a resistor to disable the ABS Inop light. If you find a good quality lighting type relay they are usually pretty quiet. If you twist one of each wire together one each from both the spoiler and hatch and crimp a wire connector one it. Then grab and twist the last 2 wires from the hatch/spoiler together, crimp a connector on it. If you look at the relay the "standard" terminal designation for the coil circuit (needed one) is numbers 85 and 86 USUALLY. They are shown by the 2 terminals with a squigly zig-gag type line drawn between those 2 terminals on a wiring diagram. It adds enough resistance to the circuit to fool the computer (without the heat of a resistor) and still allows the necessary voltage to make the LED's glow full strength. Once buttoned up under the rear hatch cover with the stereo on no-one but you will know it's there.
on my previous 93 A4 Z...i had the 98+ SS Spoiler and yes my light came on, but my ABS wasnt affected at all. I dont know why everyone gets so crazy about this whole thing. Everyone had me worried to death thinking that everytime i'd press my brakes to come to a stop, my brakes would lock up. Well, after installing the spoiler and hooking it up, "Normally" the light came on, but my ABS worked fine. I just unplugged the bulb from the guages and went on my way. If you need a light to let you know when your ABS isnt working, then its already too late cuz the problem is already there. Mabye its different for the 94-95 OBDI cars..but on my 93... i had no problems except for the light burning all the time.
I posted another thread about this not too long ago.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=96776
The only time mine comes on is when I use the hazzards. I have been told to use a relay but I have not been told exactly how to install it. Hopefully someone can hook us up with that answer
Scott
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=96776
The only time mine comes on is when I use the hazzards. I have been told to use a relay but I have not been told exactly how to install it. Hopefully someone can hook us up with that answer
Scott
Originally posted by JETMAN95Z28
I've been through this with a couple guys here trying to help them out and both ended up using the relay version because they kept burning up resistors experimenting with the "exact" necessary resistance reading. Too much or little resistance and it either FRIES or doesn't put out the light.... I only know of one guy to successfully use a resistor to disable the ABS Inop light. If you find a good quality lighting type relay they are usually pretty quiet. If you twist one of each wire together from both the spoiler and hatch and crimp a wire connector on it. Then grab and twist the last 2 wires from the hatch/spoiler together, crimp a connector on it. If you look at the relay the "standard" terminal designation for the coil circuit (needed one) is numbers 85 and 86 USUALLY. They are shown by the 2 terminals with a squigly zig-gag type line drawn between those 2 terminals on a wiring diagram. It adds enough resistance to the circuit to fool the computer (without the heat of a resistor) and still allows the necessary voltage to make the LED's glow full strength. Once buttoned up under the rear hatch cover with the stereo on no-one but you will know it's there.
I've been through this with a couple guys here trying to help them out and both ended up using the relay version because they kept burning up resistors experimenting with the "exact" necessary resistance reading. Too much or little resistance and it either FRIES or doesn't put out the light.... I only know of one guy to successfully use a resistor to disable the ABS Inop light. If you find a good quality lighting type relay they are usually pretty quiet. If you twist one of each wire together from both the spoiler and hatch and crimp a wire connector on it. Then grab and twist the last 2 wires from the hatch/spoiler together, crimp a connector on it. If you look at the relay the "standard" terminal designation for the coil circuit (needed one) is numbers 85 and 86 USUALLY. They are shown by the 2 terminals with a squigly zig-gag type line drawn between those 2 terminals on a wiring diagram. It adds enough resistance to the circuit to fool the computer (without the heat of a resistor) and still allows the necessary voltage to make the LED's glow full strength. Once buttoned up under the rear hatch cover with the stereo on no-one but you will know it's there.
Go to any auto parts store and buy an auxilliary lighting relay. They are usually less than $5. It takes about 20 minutes total to remove the inside hatch panel, then stock spoiler, re-mount your new spoiler (4-bolts) wire in the relay tuck it away in the hatch and replace the inner hatch cover.
I also helped a guy named Christian here on this website get his wired up OK and his was fine after the install.
I can make up a rough Paint Program drawing and e-mail if necessary if the description above isn't very clear.
Re: ODB1 98+ SS Wing- ABS INOP. Anyone Figure this Out COMPLETELY?
Ok I need help:
I would prefer to go the resistor route:
What ohm and what v should I get. I read somewhere 10 ohm, but then what wattage?
My radioshack has 10 ohm in 1/2, 1, and 10 watt.
Or, with the relay does any automotive 30,85,86,87 relay work?
I saw the part number for the omron relay but does it have to be that one? A part # for a relay that advanced auto, napa, or pep boys sells would be great.
Thanks!
I would prefer to go the resistor route:
What ohm and what v should I get. I read somewhere 10 ohm, but then what wattage?
My radioshack has 10 ohm in 1/2, 1, and 10 watt.
Or, with the relay does any automotive 30,85,86,87 relay work?
I saw the part number for the omron relay but does it have to be that one? A part # for a relay that advanced auto, napa, or pep boys sells would be great.
Thanks!
Last edited by sicksixx; Jun 27, 2012 at 09:16 PM.
Re: ODB1 98+ SS Wing- ABS INOP. Anyone Figure this Out COMPLETELY?
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