Well if it is a small program microcontroller I wonder if it can be swapped from a car that does have the gauge wakeup feature stock to our cars. From what everyone has been saying a lot of newer Gm cars do this now such as grand ams, I know newer vettes do it, and cadillac STS/SLS to name a couple.

 

I don't think just swapping out the microcontrller will work, since it also controls the whole cluster and the way our cluster works may be different. i have been looking at IC timers using an 555 IC Timer chip that can be got for $2 from radio shack and some other parts. That's as far as I got.

 

Well I had this idea that wouldnt cost to much money and could help. On ebay there are plenty of newer GrandAm instrument clusters going for dirt cheap. Do you think by dissecting one of those clusters that we know for a fact do the sweep stock can help? So you dont think any parts can be swapped? maybe the microcontroller for the gauge sweep feature is seperate from other controllers? Just a thought there is an 01 GrandAm cluster ending soon at like only 24 bucks. Could possibly help. If any of you wanna chat on aim my name is JTS97Z28

 

I like how this is going!!

The ideas are flowing, but I'll inject some input here.

There's a bunch of IC's on the PCB of the gauge cluster, but they are all in the inner side..

I just put my gauge cluster back in and put on the dast topper, and I'd rather not crack it gettnig it back out right now..

Here's a picture I took of it while it was out.


I highlighted and labeled a few things..

Now about using a timer to throw some voltage on the gauges..

It's not going to be perfect if you just throw a specified ammount of voltage on the MPH gauge.. The rest might be ok, since none of the needles go beyond 180 degrees of total difference (min/max positions). If say the MPH gauge goes from 0volts to 5volts, 5 volts being 150, it might not get over to 150, since it has to find the shortet magnet path. And if it does get to jump over to 150, it might get stuck on that side because of the exact same problem..

What would need to get done is digitally vary (pulse at varying rate) the correct voltages required, if that's what it would take..

There also might be the need to create a "stock signal cutout" to prevent feeding the voltage into the controller chips and damaging them..

Does anyone have a gauge cluster out of a totaled 93-97 V6 or V8 that they can donate? I know it's asking a lot, but it's all for a good cause. No guarantee it would get returned in working condition. I have an oscilloscope that I can use to do some diagnostics.. I'd almost prefer a V6 cluster, so that I could put it in my car, and see if it displays the correct RPM/MPH.. Does anyone know if that would work? If so, that proves the signal going to the cluster is universal/irrelevant/relevant...

If anyone here is an electronics engineer / level 3 or above technician, I'd suggest they do the expierements.. I'm only at level 1 or 2..

Would GM give out any info on the clusters? Do they give out technical data on anything? It would be best to get some blueprints from the people that make it..

 

found used z28 cluster on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33675

if someone had some extra money to buy it and experiment on it
i'm sorry i don't have the extra money or skill needed

 

There's a few gauges available on ebay..

I think this is down to the point of needing someone to purchace a cluster or 2 for expierementing...

 

I'm amazed at how much attention this is getting!!! After all, the gauges only sweep for a second or two right? And unless your sitting in the car when it starts, you'll never know it happened. It's not like an appearance mod that anyone will see at a car show or anything. Can't believe so many people are putting so much time and effort and $$$$ into such a thing.

But then again, that little bit of insanity is what makes us car nuts special Just my $0.02 worth.

 

its not some much that this is the "coolest" thing ever
its the fact that its a problem and some of these people want to solve or figure it out
just for fun

 

This may be the reason that Ganatelli only set it up to 12 o'clock. I was thinking if you put 2 timers in series. the first would get the Speedo moving up to maybe 1/4 voltage and as soon as it pulses, start the second timer to jump the voltage to full voltage and move the rest. I figure that with how quick it moves, that maybe it might be enough since it's already in motion in the correct direction, if not, delay the second timer 1/2 a second or so off the first. I don't mind pulling my cluster in figuring out max voltages and resistances if needed. Thien it's just building the timer circuits.

 

Dark Angel,

Go ahead and start on your end of the research.. Pull it out, and fill us in on what you find.

I on the other hand am unsure about a few things, since the odometer is digital.. But I'm sure any effects will be nothing..

 

Vomit God I think your probably right with the speedo not going to 150 if we just spike it with the max voltage. We will probably have to have a circuit that ramps the voltage over 1-2 sec. I don't know how to make it....but it can't be that hard.

But before we get too far ahead of ourselves, we need to know a couple of things:

1) is the movement of all 6 gauges in the cluster caused by different voltages.

2) the exact voltages that give min and max value on each of the gauges (assuming 1 is true). Probably would also be good to know if 1/2 the max voltage gives a 1/2 reading on the gauge (prove the voltage to reading corelation is linear).

 

I have some variable resistors, so I can hook the gauges up to 12V and adjust the voltage to max reading and find out what the voltage is and what resistance would be needed it they are different. I might start to pull the cluster out tonight, it doesn't take too long. The hardest thing is the shiftlight wiring I integrated. It has to be pulled through first. When I find something out, I will report it back.

 

sweet thanks guys!

 

OK, here is what I have found out on my '01 cluster. Some of this is wierd, but I still need a little more research.

On the speedo Pin 3 seems to be the signal pin to the speedo. I have the Granatelli module installed. It has a wire going to all 4 pins of the speedo and 3 other places on the board. When you initially turn the ignition on, pin 3 jumps to 9V and then back to 0V. So I am going to assume for the moment that 9V is the a little over the mid point.
On the Tach, pin 2 seems to be the signal pin. With the ignition just turned on it sits at 2V, then jumps to 4.**V at idle and increases from there. I haven't found the whole range yet.
On the temp gauge, Pin 4 is the signal.
On Oil pressure, pin 2 is the signal pin.
On the battery, Pin 2 is the signal pin.
On the gas gauge Pin 4 is the signal pin.
The tach and the speedo have all 4 pins connected and the the other 4 only have 3. Don't know if the is relevant. I think it cause the gauges aren't spring loaded, they have another pair of coils to returnt he needle to rest quicker. This is the same for the gas, oil and water temp, but they aren't used as they don't have to move very fast. The voltage gauge is spring loaded and returns on it's own.

This being said, I think we would need to pulse the gauges with 12V, with reverse the polarity to reurn them to the start position and then let the cluster take back over. This should work for all gauges except the speedo, which we would have to ramp the voltage up to it's max. We would also need to isolate the pins so that we dont damage the console IC's

 

This is all VERY good information you found. I am not as knowledgeable about this stuff as you guys seem to be so I will go with whatever you find. Seems to me that what you said about the speedo and pin3 jumping to 9v then back to 0v is exactly what we need to have happen to all the signal pins on all the gauges and just determine the exact voltage required to jump the particular gauge to max position then back down where its normal operation will takeover. Now you mention how the tach jumps to 4v which makes sense because I noticed that my tach gauge in my 97 Z will jump close to a thousand rpm and back when key is turned to on.
Sounds to me like all we need is to have a certain voltage applied to the correct signal pin of each gauge at key on.

Dark Angel,
Do you have a digital camera? if so pictures and maybe a description of what were looking at would be awesome. Heck, if you think you really know how to do this and get it working correctly I would be willing to send you my cluster and pay you for doing this to mine. Think about it and keep us posted on anything else you come up with.