Bodykit Install....
Bodykit Install....
Hey all I have the Wings West W type kit on my car. Over the winter the front piece has fallen off. Instead of just putting it back on I want to install it a little differently. Instead of using the emblem tape to secure it I want to weld (For lack of a better term) the kit to the factory body parts. Problem is I have no idea what to use in order to get this done. Has anyone attempted this? Any help would be great....
Thanks
Thanks
Actually, you can weld it on. There is a technique for plastic welding, but from what I know it's not that hard. You need a special welder et all, but it's definetly something a body shop could do..Although you might be able to pull it off yourself. Just practice on some pieces of urethane until you get it right.
I have a fully seamlessly molded bodykit, W-Type front and sides and Xenon rear (pics in sig page2).
I used a industrial epoxy resin. A poly resin would be stronger but more toxic. Most of these materials are at least somewhat toxic, and the front and sides need to be modified first before trying to mold them on. I would go into detail but it just wouldn't help much, without visuals.
Here is a picture with the front fascia and sides sanded and primered.
I used a industrial epoxy resin. A poly resin would be stronger but more toxic. Most of these materials are at least somewhat toxic, and the front and sides need to be modified first before trying to mold them on. I would go into detail but it just wouldn't help much, without visuals.
Here is a picture with the front fascia and sides sanded and primered.
Originally posted by pu12en12g
I have a fully seamlessly molded bodykit, W-Type front and sides and Xenon rear (pics in sig page2).
I used a industrial epoxy resin. A poly resin would be stronger but more toxic. Most of these materials are at least somewhat toxic, and the front and sides need to be modified first before trying to mold them on. I would go into detail but it just wouldn't help much, without visuals.
Here is a picture with the front fascia and sides sanded and primered.
I have a fully seamlessly molded bodykit, W-Type front and sides and Xenon rear (pics in sig page2).
I used a industrial epoxy resin. A poly resin would be stronger but more toxic. Most of these materials are at least somewhat toxic, and the front and sides need to be modified first before trying to mold them on. I would go into detail but it just wouldn't help much, without visuals.
Here is a picture with the front fascia and sides sanded and primered.
Originally posted by pu12en12g
That's the basic idea, but as you get into it you realize there is alot more to it... someday when I have time I will do a guide or something.
That's the basic idea, but as you get into it you realize there is alot more to it... someday when I have time I will do a guide or something.
Well since I didn't get a response back here is the plan. I am removing all the remnants of the two sided tape from the parts and the car. I am going to scuff the area where the bodykit will attach with a course sandpaper and clean it well. I am then going to use this marine adhesive called goop that is made for fiberglass and poly (Says it will glue anything together just focuses on those). Once attached then I will put the screws in again just for strength. This should get rid of the ugly gap the tape leaves and make the attachment stronger. I am not sure if I want to make it one piece or not if it takes away the gap as I think it will. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Now would be a great time to say that won't work or don't do it...haha. Thanks all for your help so far.
Originally posted by cadrez28
..... I am then going to use this marine adhesive called goop that is made for fiberglass and poly ...... Anyone have any thoughts on this? Now would be a great time to say that won't work or don't do it...haha. Thanks all for your help so far.
..... I am then going to use this marine adhesive called goop that is made for fiberglass and poly ...... Anyone have any thoughts on this? Now would be a great time to say that won't work or don't do it...haha. Thanks all for your help so far.
It might become a royal PITA.
Originally posted by caspergotaz28
I can only think of one long-term problem. If someday you want to remove the ground effects or replace them, you will have to "chisel" off the old ground effects possibly doing great damage to the car.
It might become a royal PITA.
I can only think of one long-term problem. If someday you want to remove the ground effects or replace them, you will have to "chisel" off the old ground effects possibly doing great damage to the car.
It might become a royal PITA.
Good luck man. I hope that stuff is flexible enough. I had to special order mine, and I used microballon filler to make it able to be sanded. This is the second strongest solidifying compound known.
I have alot more tips for ya, that I learned along the way, but no way to put them into words. The key thing is to PLAN AHEAD carefully, and take your time.
I have alot more tips for ya, that I learned along the way, but no way to put them into words. The key thing is to PLAN AHEAD carefully, and take your time.
Well the goop was a flop so I am looking for alternatives today. pu12en12g where did you order that stuff from? I am also thinking rivets instead of screws for more durability. Anyway just an update so no one goes out and buys that crap...haha.
Hey all I found some good info. This comes straight from Fusor. They have said use part #127/128 (Slow set time) or 147/148 (medium set time). The gun used is #301 for the 10.1oz and 300 for the smaller tube. 13.86 and 32.05 per tube and 49.95 for the gun at Sherwin-Williams. I am ordering today and will have it by tomorrow to do the install. I also found some info on 3m parts, but let's say I don't want to spend 300.00 for the applicator...haha. Yea Ryanzee I will be using rivets to secure the front and back from under the kit. I think it will be faster and stronger. I will update as I make progress.
Last edited by cadrez28; Mar 13, 2003 at 11:03 AM.
Man o man what a PITA! The Fusor product is great when cured, but it took forever to hold the bodykit in place. I advise to use screws on the side parts to make sure you have 0 gap. The front was easy since I used rivets. One word of caution, when pre drilling for rivets be careful not to run the drill bit through your bumper cover....
. Anyway I have that done now on to the body work. Someday I will take pictures and share what is going on.
Laterz
. Anyway I have that done now on to the body work. Someday I will take pictures and share what is going on.Laterz
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