Advanced Tech Advanced tech discussion. Major rebuilds, engine theory, etc.
HIGH-END DISCUSSION ONLY - NOT FOR GENERAL TECH INFO

The weirdest sound coming from the front of my LT1..please listen and post ideas.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:16 PM
  #16  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Hot Rod Hawk
I belive the pocket on the opti that the cam dowel pin recives into is .320 deep and the dowel should be around .285 long. Yours look much longer in the pics. New CAM?
If the dowels to long it will cause excessive pressure on the opti.
Hows the opti spin in your hand?
Bearing feel ok?

Theres three areas on the retainer that show up as not normal to me under the left bolt on the 2nd picture. Was the cam gear seated properly on the cam?
could it have been cocked?
Just questions bro, good luck.
I thought the dowel suppose to be .650? Mine is .620. Opti is brand new and spins fine. As far as the cam gear siting on cocked...didnt look like it

here are some pics of the cam gear:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/camgear2.JPG
http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/camgear.JPG

Last edited by xxsaint69x; Apr 28, 2004 at 01:25 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #17  
Hot Rod Hawk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
the camshaft end play spec for that motor is 0.004-0.012",
check it.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:32 PM
  #18  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Hot Rod Hawk
the camshaft end play spec for that motor is 0.004-0.012",
check it.
how do i go about checking it? I only have a dail caliper
Marcin

if it has anything to do with pushing the cam all the way back and then out and checking the distance with the cam gear installed i have pretty much 0. I cant pull it out at all.

Last edited by xxsaint69x; Apr 28, 2004 at 01:45 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 02:02 PM
  #19  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
well i think we are onto something here...went and put the stock timing gear on the cam and sure enough i have little bit of play.
I have 0 play with the CLoyes gear. It take a tinny bit of effort to spin the cam with the cloyes gear on there, and it doesnt take any with the stocker. So whats next? What do i need to grind down? Or do i have to put a washer somewhere?

Thanks
Marcin
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #20  
Hot Rod Hawk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally posted by xxsaint69x
how do i go about checking it? I only have a dail caliper
Marcin

if it has anything to do with pushing the cam all the way back and then out and checking the distance with the cam gear installed i have pretty much 0. I cant pull it out at all.
Yes thats how to check it. I'd think you need to call the gear manufacture at this point and see what they say bro .
Sounds like the gear is out of tollarance to me. Be sure to sent them the pics with the three rub spots or point them to this thread.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 02:57 PM
  #21  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Hot Rod Hawk
Yes thats how to check it. I'd think you need to call the gear manufacture at this point and see what they say bro .
Sounds like the gear is out of tollarance to me. Be sure to sent them the pics with the three rub spots or point them to this thread.

well i called summit and they kept on telling me the chain i have 9-3145 is not for a LT1 and it wont fit without clearancing the block. I kept telling him that 1000s of people run that chain without any modifications (-waterpump) without any problems. He just kept telling me i need a single chain setup 3155 i think. Anyways, since they are being a pain in the ***, can i just grind down a tinny bit of the back of the gear to get some clearance?
http://bellsouthpwp.net/x/x/xxsaint69x/camgear2.JPG
thanks

Last edited by xxsaint69x; Apr 28, 2004 at 02:59 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 02:59 PM
  #22  
Hot Rod Hawk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally posted by xxsaint69x
well i called summit and they kept on telling me the chain i have 9-3145 is not for a LT1 and it wont fit without clearancing the block. I kept telling him that 1000s of people run that chain without any modifications (-waterpump) without any problems. He just kept telling me i need a single chain setup 3155 i think. Anyways, since they are being a pain in the ***, can i just grind down a tinny bit of the back of the gear to get some clearance?

thanks
NO DO NOT GRIND THE GEAR
Matt Swindel had the same problem as you with that same part number. He did what they said...3155
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 03:00 PM
  #23  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Hot Rod Hawk
NO DO NOT GRIND THE GEAR
Matt Swindel had the same problem as you with that same part number. He did what they said...3155
Its like 120 bucks and not even in stock...beside why wont the 3145 work? Thats what everone else is using?

Last edited by xxsaint69x; Apr 28, 2004 at 03:03 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 03:28 PM
  #24  
Hot Rod Hawk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
Good luck, I'm out the door for Memphis Tn.
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 05:58 PM
  #25  
Camaro90RS's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 331
From: IL
IMO, I wouldnt use a Cloyes timing chain if it were given to me. My engine builder has seen several of them break, and it makes a nice mess. On my motor, we went with a Rollmaster Billet true double roller chain. It is a fully machined billet steel gears with a german made chain if I remember correctly. The chain works great with the CSI waterpum, just might need a little more clearancing on the timing cover.

The part number for it is CP8305 or SBC chevy timing set w/factory hydraulic roller. Price is $79.95 from Competition Products in Wisconsin. I ordered it and had 2 days later. Their number is 1-800-233-0199 I have been running this chain for a while now, no problems and the chain is quiet as can be.

Dont put another cloyes in your car, or you will be asking for more problems than you have now. Anything else just pm me or reply back.

Brian
Old Apr 28, 2004 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Camaro90RS
IMO, I wouldnt use a Cloyes timing chain if it were given to me. My engine builder has seen several of them break, and it makes a nice mess. On my motor, we went with a Rollmaster Billet true double roller chain. It is a fully machined billet steel gears with a german made chain if I remember correctly. The chain works great with the CSI waterpum, just might need a little more clearancing on the timing cover.

The part number for it is CP8305 or SBC chevy timing set w/factory hydraulic roller. Price is $79.95 from Competition Products in Wisconsin. I ordered it and had 2 days later. Their number is 1-800-233-0199 I have been running this chain for a while now, no problems and the chain is quiet as can be.

Dont put another cloyes in your car, or you will be asking for more problems than you have now. Anything else just pm me or reply back.

Brian
aww too late....the difference was .008 so i had that much taken off the cloyes gear and now i have some end play


Hopefully no more noise for me
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:35 AM
  #27  
Whit11's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 14
From: Greenwood, AR
What you had to do is more common than people think. With varying tolerences on blocks, cam faces, and gears, this is the best way to gain the clearance that is required.

As far as Cloyes goes. I'm sure there have been some bad pieces put out by them, just like any manufacturer , but I haven't ever had a failure with thier stuff through the years and that's with cams in the .800+ lift range and 300lbs. seat pressure. They make parts for almost all the auto manufacturers and some of the aftermarket ones (Crane, Comp etc.)

My .02 pesos
Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:29 PM
  #28  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
car is back toghter...and the noise is still there... ITS THE OPTI MAKING IT FOR SURE....now i need to figure out why?

What can cause the bearing on the opti to go bad in matter of seconds? Or maybe i jsut got a defective opti??
Old Apr 30, 2004 | 09:05 PM
  #29  
OneFlyn95z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 1,431
From: Pacific North West
Incorrect alighnment and or a pin being to long

I know for a fact if the pin is too long it will wipe one out almost as soon as you fire the car
Old May 1, 2004 | 11:47 AM
  #30  
bunker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,305
From: North Vancouver, BC
pretty sure its not your opti bro, mine makes a similar noise & I really didn't care, on my buddies car we clearanced the timing cover & the noise went away, what you could try doing though is loosen the bolts on the opti & while under the car & the accessory belt off, try moving the opti in & out a bit see if the sound goes away, I'm positive its the chain hitting the timing cover though. Mine is been doing that noise for ages in all my cloyes LT1s, the car moves in & out just a tad which causes that sound.

As a matter of fact, the only car that I don't think is doing that noise with that chain is another buddie's 94 TA, but what I do remember though is his cam DOWEL was very long, we never shortened it & he's the only guy without the noise problem. So it makes sense that the car is being pushed back at all times so it can't walk up & hit the timing cover like mine can.

If you rev her up the noise does go away though because the cam tends to walk backwards with RPM.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:48 AM.