I had originally planned to just build a 406 with 6" rods. But the block I have, doesnt have a crank. I found eagle cast steel cranks for $250-350. But then I started thinking about it. If I have to buy a new crank anyway, what kinda extra cubes may I be able to get outta this.

What options are there out there to do this. This engine wouldnt see very many road miles, its just a toy. The most it would see is maybe driving to the track and makin a few runs. Can you grind the journals of a big block crank down? Or are the cranks not even close to the same? Also what kinda clearancing would I be lookin at? I was panning on getting a bunch of machine work done anyway so whats a little more

I would really rather keep the price about the same, I dont mind payin a little extra but I dont wanna get into spending $600.

 

dude, you can get a CAT 4340 4.00" crank for a 434 sbc from www.dynoflo.com for about $450 and it'll take everything you can throw at it up to 10000 rpm and 1000hp. Thats what i would do, but then you've REALLY got to think about suspension and how you're going to get all that ******* torque to the ground

 

CAT or SCAT? 10,000 RPM and 1,000 HP? I am not aware of when that happened, but thier stuff that I've seen is good for 7,000 RPM and relatively safe with 600 HP. I believe at least two people here have broken them.

Sorry, but $600 for a crank in my eyes is cheap if it will hold your power. If your talking over a grand, then I can see the reasoning. I'd rather build it once, not two or three times.

 

Wow that doesnt sound bad at all. I wonder how serious of a clearancing job I would have to do though, and if I can use 6.0" rods easily with it?

And about getting the power to the ground. Ive already bought some KYB GR-2s for the rear, and Summit sells a rear suspension kit made by Hotchkis I believe that I was gonna buy. And some SFCs and adjustable drag ratio struts for the front. That would at least get more to the ground than the stock suspension.


Edit: In response to Dr.Mudge

And if all that even if the cat crank will be safe around 600 hp thats about where I was looking to be right now so thats fine. I would like to be able to eat all the little DSM ****** that seem to infest this area. And maybe be able to tug the frton wheels off the ground a little. Then Ill be happy until Im out of school.

Im not workin on a severe budget cause Im takin my time with this, but I know I dont have the $ right now to be building for 10,000 RPM and 1,000 hp anyway. I dont think Ill be breaking a crank anytime soon

 

Alright meow, lets keep this thread as straight as possible.

 

Hey,

I don't advertise in the advanced forum, but if you want to get a rotating assembly for that engine we can fit you in on the stroker GP.

A Scat 4340 4.00" 400 Journal Crank
Scat H-Beam or Howards I Beam (my choice)
and a Diamond or Ross piston.
Rings, Rod Bearings etc....

That should take about anything you can throw at it.

Your going to have to do all of that if you are going to build it up.

What kind of heads are you going to run, cause a 434 SBC wants some decent head. I would think something like a Motown 220cc head would be pretty good for that, it would like more but that's a good low priced head. The AFR 227's or a Ported Brodix -10 or -11 or even a T1 would work nice.

Bret

 

What kinda price am I looking at for your whole assembly? And can I get a link to it or a phone number or something to the company? Doesnt sound like a bad idea.

I had planned on buying a 4340 6.0 inch rod kit from Doug Herbert that came with clevite 77 bearrings gasket kit, the bushed rods, and I was gonna ask for Speed Pro forged pistons for around $550 total I think, then I was gonna buy a crank separate.

I was planning on getting the rotating assemby bought and the block all machined and all before I got heads. Ill check into the motown's. I was looking at a set of trick flows becase they seem to be decent heads for right around $1000. Then get them shaved down so I can run around 12:1 compression and ported out. I was thinking maybe the motor would just get put together with a set of severly ported camel-humps or something for a couple months until I could recover from buying the rotating assembly and machine work then buy a set of heads.

 

I agree. Advanced Tech is generally free of this kind of stuff. Posters..... be aware.

Fred

 

I PM'ed you on the Stroker

With a 434 cube SBC you need big heads. So you might as well look at the 220cc heads. The Motown's are about the cheapest big head out there and I've seen them flow 280 with a mild porting. They come with a 64cc chamber so with gaskets and valve reliefs you'll get about 12:1

The Pro Top Line Heads are not bad either. They area bout the same price and are 220cc or 235cc.

Any stock head even ported well like camel humps is not going to be even close to enough. The big aftermarket heads will get you alot closer.

Bret

 

Yah I checked out those MoTowns, I like those thats probably what I will go with.

 

i've been looking at making a 434 just lately. some of the heads i've found that are cheap and flow fairly well (for the cost) are the dart 230cc's theres iron eagles and the pro ones which are aluminum the low lift flow isnt great but the high lift is pretty good. ~300cfm @ .600" i've been considering the iron. and after looking at the flow charts it looks to me like its best to stay with the smaller intake valves because the flow doesnt increase that much but the valve wieght does quite a bit (relatively speaking).

now for a question (this probably sounds silly) but using a production block is there any special messures that need to be taken to accomidate a 4" stroke? small base circle cam? i'm sure 5.7" rods are probably a must with a stock deck hieght. but what about nitrous use... i'm hoping to cram about 200hp worth of dope down its throat since it'll be forged anyway do they make nitrous pistons for an application like this with a stock deck height or do i need to look into aftermarket blocks?

 

From what Ive read with a production 400 block you need to use a small base cirlce cam anyway. I was kinda wondering how safe it would be to shoot a 150 200 shot of nitrous anyway. Mines two bolt main but Im gonna buy the Milodon caps and have it drilled for 4 bolts.

 

Make sure the thing doesn't get to overbored when you are looking at alot of n2o.

You can easily put a 6." rod in a 427-434 cube 400 based SBC.

Dart's heads are o.k., the CNC machined ones leave alot to be desired for CNC stuff.

Bret

 

One thing to add, get a Motown or Bowtie block while you're at it because by the time you spend the money to add splayed caps and all the machine work you will only be a few hundred shy of the price of one of these much stronger blocks. Otherwise you will soon be rebuilding especially the guy who wants to add a 200 shot.

 

I am running a 72 GM 400 block, a 4-bolt. Has an Eagle forged rotating assy, JE pistons. It is a 4 inch stroke, with 6 inch h-beam rods. The wrist pin ends up quite high in the piston, but I havent had any problems.
The thing is 434 CI, and I have domed pistons to get to 12.5:1 CR, and am running out of the box AFR 220`s

Running N/A with a single outta the box 950 Holley, on a Victor jr. I have run a best of 10.57 @ 128 mph in my 88 Formula.
Really havent done any tuning other than tire pressure and timing, am thinking I can coax it closer to the low tens. It is a strong engine, I like it real well.

Go for it