the engine heat slowly rises to H on my stock guage then stays there.. i get scared so i turn it off. i have coolant and water in there and im running a fan.. could there be a problem with the thermostat or is the stock guage just lying to me.

 

accuracy of electric gauges is difficult to say and its anybodies guess what an H is numerically.

get a mechanical gauge until you know whats going on.

 

Did you bleed the air out of the system with the bleeder screws?

 

i was just running it and i feel no water going through the top hose.. does this mean i need a new.. lower thermostat.. or could it just be that i have air in the system? where are the bleeder screws located i dont see anything. when i turn them will fluid come out or just air.. thank you.. sorry to ask these questions that probably seem so stupid to you guys but im learning and i only learn by doing.

 

There is one on the outlet of the thermostat housing. And one in the metle section of the small hose that comes off of the top of the passenger side of the water pump.

You just open the screws up a little ways and start the car up until coolant starts to come out (air will come out at first). Stuff some rags underneath them so coolant doesn't drip down on you opti.

If you haven't done this yet, this is more than likely your problem.

 

Maybe its just me, but I think I need to know what car/engine you are talking about... maybe everyone else knows you have an LT1 so they are telling you how to bleed an LT1, but I'm not sure what setup you are even talking about.

Why not include the facts about your car, engine, etc in a signature, so people can give you the correct info?????????

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Fred
94 Formula A3: 381/TH400/N2O

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Detailed Mod's List
11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year

[This message has been edited by Injuneer 94FormM6 (edited July 24, 2002).]

 

I had the same thing happen to my old Z after my heads cam swap. There was air in both tubes with screws/or in the entire coolant system...unscrew them, you will hear the air come out if there is any...then the antifreeze...hope this helps

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SOLD 7-6-02!!!1994 Z28 A4 3.23, !TBB, EGR, MAF Descreened, CC305,GMPP Dual Springs, CC Pro Magnum RR, Mildy Ported Heads, Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Catback, Custom CAI, Magnecore Wires, SLP Reinforced LCA's and Panhard Rod, AAM Rear end Cover, B&M Deep Pan, and Heavy Duty Cooler, PCM For Less Tuning Best E.T. with only catback and CAI 13.89@ 100....After Mods...best et of 12.91 @ 106 at Muncie with a 2.09 60 ft time

New Car...1996 Firebird Formula M6...bone stock...not for long!

 

If you have an electric waterpump you can turn it on without turning the car on.

If...


Ryan

 

i had the same problem in my LT1 Z28, the heat gauge will raise slowly to the red mark (after 1/2 an hour of driving it will hit the red line)i replaced the radiator and the thermostat (with a 160 thermostat) but it didn't help, i took it to the dealer and it turned out that the waterpump needed to get replaced. the waterpump under pressure test was leaking. it is the same water pump since the car was made.

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Abdullah
94 A4 Z28
13.20@115 mph (g-tech)

 

I had the same problem a few weeks ago.

I forgot to put the waterpump drive spline back in ;(