Just FYI, I got the specs on my cam. 257/266 @ 0.050", .683"/.672" on a 112 lsa.

Hypothetically speaking, if you didn't have to rely on engine vacuum for your braking system and had a manual transmission, does anyone think this cam is just too big for the street and that I should look into something a bit smaller?

Jordon has recommended something in the 245/250 range, but it's a fair bit of work to pull the cam and install a new one if there's not going to be that much increase in drivability, if you know what I mean.

 

Jim,
What compression? What is the duration at .200? How many cubes?

Dennis

 

Sorry, forgot that there was someone in this thread who doesn't know about my engine.

11.8:1 CR, don't know, 396 CID.

 

Jim,
That should be real respectable. It would be nice to know the duration @ .200, but the overall overlap cannot be too hateful.

Dennis

 

Not sure what you mean by "respectable". I already know it's capable of a ton of power, I'm just worried about the street manners.

The cam spec card should come along with the engine. I don't know if Cam Motion includes that detail, but Mark just gave me the 0.050" duration and lift numbers.

 

Hmm, from a drivability standpoint and based on my own experiences I like Jordon's suggestion.
UD grinds some good cams, I've used quite a few and if given some time I'll look up some receipts and dyno sheets and tell you how they performed. This has been a few years so I'll need a refresher. They were in that duration range (in sbc strokers) but I don't recall the exact specs
One I am really familiar with is the Comp XR286R. Me and a buddy put together a 381 last year.... 1st gen engine with TPIS Miniram, Accel dfi, Dart pro1 heads... using that cam and while being a real "racey" cam it was good on the valvesprings (also equipped with spring oilers which I like for street cars). Specs are (from memory) 246/252 .57/.57 110 lsa.... if you're interested, might wanna see if it's on their site.
Anyways, it pulled 11" Hg at ~950 rpm and by the way, we ran 1.6's on the intake side. Engine made ~630 hp at ~6800 rpm, again from memory, and was "streetable" enough by my standards.

-Mindgame

 

Jim, I think the cam you have in the motor right now is one that will give you *decent* driveability along with great power. However, you need to ask yourself if you want more driveability or more power....you have FAST, so rpms are not the problem.

If memory serves me correctly, isnt your current cam the second generation cam in your motor? I think Mark told me that your first one was too big for your needs.

In agreement with Jordon I will also add this......I had a Cam Motions 247/250 .658/.659 112 grind in my 396.....similar to Jordons old cam in his 401. This cam drove almost no loss in driveability over a stock LT1 IMO. Kinda like a well tuned HOT cam setup in a stock motor.

My new cam (same exact top end as you Jim) is a 255/260 solid roller. I dont know the exact lift, but it is near .700". Should be just right for what I am wanting....decent driveability, and good power.

Personally after all you have been thru....I would just run the cam that you have now to start. Chances are that it will probably be to your liking.....if not, drop $400 and some labor and change it Plus, your motor is basically already tuned.

I dont know?
Jason

 

before i built my turbo motor i was building a n/a bowtie 406 with my same heads and a be-jesus solid roller. I dont think PSIs are the pacalloy springs because the open and closed pressure on the PSI springs i bought (then returned) was no where near what the pacalloys could produce.

It was a 1.55" spring that was going i think close to 700lbs open

 

I actually like Jason's suggestion better.

Get it all together and drive the thing a bit to see what you think. Cause no one can truely know what you consider to be streetable better than you.
This is a really lightweight car, so that will change things up a bit. If you don't like it, pull the cam swap components, and go with something a bit "milder".

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

Thanks 'Game.

So what's the general consensus on my valve springs? Here's the best plan of action I've come up with so far...

1. When the engine shows up, immediately relieve the pressure on the springs. It's going to sit for awhile longer while I finish up some other things, so there's no use doing more damage than necessary, if any is being done.

2. Buy a spring pressure tester and check the springs for peace of mind before I install the engine. It'd be easier to work on out of the car, so I can find out if the springs have lost tension during the time the engine was sitting.

3. Buy a new set of Pacaloy springs, if necessary. I've seen votes for Isky, PSI, and a few others, but no real proof that Comp Cams Pacaloy springs aren't just as good. If I can match diameter and spring pressure, then there's always the option of going with another spring. Does anyone truly think that one brand will outlast another? I assume they all have about the same life expectancy on the street, give or take a couple thousand miles, right?

4. Sell my used Pacaloy springs to someone with a hydraulic roller cam. Just kidding.

 

Oky doke, I'll throw some stuff at ya but will likely think of something else later.

If the springs are within spec keep em and get on with it. Just keep a close eye on things for the first 3k miles. So an on-head spring checker is a good buy and should be in the toolbox of anyone running a hefty solid roller on the street.

Isky, PSI, Comp, Manley, and let me slip in..... Erson. Cause they all make a good spring. I got burned on a set of K-Motions so I won't ever suggest them again but I feel confident in using any of the springs listed.
In race engines, I've had better luck with Isky's toolroom springs than any other. They just seem to be more fatigue resistent than the competition but that's just been my experiences. I wouldn't lose sleep if I had to run a Comp pacalloy either. I would run spring oilers though... either that or buy a rocker that incorporates it.

-Mindgame

 

Where should I look to find such a beast?

I'm not sure which valve covers I'm getting. I'll explain... the original plan was for the taller valve covers that were on my engine to go to Mark and he measured and was having a shorter "blank" (no breather or oil cap hole) set made so that I could custom configure them as clearance dictated. I don't know if that got done or not. One of the things that I asked about was integral spring oilers in the valve covers, and was told it wasn't worth the effort. I've already got Crower shaft mount rockers in a semi-rare offset, so if I'm going to oil my springs, it'll have to be using some other method. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

 

My apologies Jim... got a little bogged down in useless 15* head swap stuff.

Intercomp makes a very accurate digital model. You can get it from Herbert Performance.
If you want something a bit nicer $$, go to Buxton Engineering's website.... very nice piece that'd be just as well at home in an F16 cockpit as in your tool box.

Well, check with BilletFab http://www.billetfab.com/. They make a really nice tall centerbolt valvecover with the spring oilers. There are a couple of others but I'm at a loss right now.....
The oilers are a good idea. Alot of drag racers think they're a waste of time..... wel hell, alot of engine builders period. But I think a street engine should be built like an endurance one... cause that is what it is. Chuck is the one who suggested them to me and his reasoning stems from research in spring heat and the pressure loss associated with it. You can't really see the loss on a cold engine after the heat cycle.... he tests the spring pressure on a running engine using some type of sensor. Anyways, he makes a very strong argument for using them and considering the amount of money already spent on putting an engine of this caliber together.... I have to say, why the hell not. For best effect, route the line through a cooler first, then to the valve cover.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

edit: added BilletFab link

 

I hear ya.

Very nice. I'll be needing one of those in the near future, I can tell.

My current covers were made by Billet Fab, and if I have replacements, they were also made by Billet Fab. Not sure if their the "Pro" versions that can be gun drilled for spring oilers or not, but it's worth looking into when the engine shows up. BTW, my heads are perimeter bolt, not center.

I didn't see any information on their site about how the spring oilers are fed. Is an external line(s) required from some pressurized source? I could take it after the front-mounted Mocal cooler if that's the case.

I thought so too, but I get talked out of a lot of my ideas. I also get talked into a lot... Fred's almost got me convinced that I need an Accusump too.

 

Doh!

That's right, you are using the 215's. Billet Fabs stuff is real nice too.
If you wanted to go to an oiler type, then you'd have a few more choices than the c-bolt guys..... Moroso, Shaver, etcetera.

Yep, a pressurized source is the way. Using a -12 line from the cooler is the setup I'm using.

The "Accusump" has saved many engines.
It's a good idea, just need to find some room for it but yeah.... it's a great safety measure and super easy to maintain. Plus you can prelube the engine before startup....

-Mindgame