Solid roller cam maintenance
Originally posted by WS6 TA
Heat is what kills valve springs (causes them to take a set).
Heat is what kills valve springs (causes them to take a set).
WRT to messing with them in the car, I’m not sure what your access to them is like, but if it’s like in a 4th gen, I’d suggest looking for a cam driven compressor that has a jessle adaptor, that has the advantage that you can use it in tight spaces since you can turn the handle in any direction that you need for room. I usually use a cheapy Summit one that I’ve made a little adaptor to work with shaft style setups, but I believe the Moroso one (that summit copied) is available with an optional adaptor.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlab/pi...ngine_left.jpg
Originally posted by jimlab
This should give you a rough idea of the space available. The engine isn't tucked under anything, and there will be easy access to most if not all the springs, but obviously leaning over a fender isn't as handy as working on an engine on a stand.
This should give you a rough idea of the space available. The engine isn't tucked under anything, and there will be easy access to most if not all the springs, but obviously leaning over a fender isn't as handy as working on an engine on a stand.

Edit: I think this is the tool WS6 TA was talking about:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27035
Last edited by Soma07; Jun 18, 2003 at 05:44 AM.
Originally posted by Soma07
Hell you've got more room than a 4th gen does. IMO you'll have no problems changing them on the car
Hell you've got more room than a 4th gen does. IMO you'll have no problems changing them on the car

Edit: I think this is the tool WS6 TA was talking about:
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27035
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27035
Jim,
The Pacaloy springs should check fine, and will have a much higher resilence to tensile fatigue. Although, their is one major downside of the pacaloy material, instead of getting a little soft before failure they seem to dramatically loose pressure. this is the tradeoff for having a material that lasts longer. My general theory for my driver customers w/ pacaloy's is to replace once a year as preventative maintenance.
On Another note, If you do replace the springs, Make sure you take a good look at the ProPacAlloy springs. We have seen dramatic increases in spring life, even on street driven cars with over 1050Lbs of open pressure.
Thanks
Dennis
The Pacaloy springs should check fine, and will have a much higher resilence to tensile fatigue. Although, their is one major downside of the pacaloy material, instead of getting a little soft before failure they seem to dramatically loose pressure. this is the tradeoff for having a material that lasts longer. My general theory for my driver customers w/ pacaloy's is to replace once a year as preventative maintenance.
On Another note, If you do replace the springs, Make sure you take a good look at the ProPacAlloy springs. We have seen dramatic increases in spring life, even on street driven cars with over 1050Lbs of open pressure.
Thanks
Dennis
Jason / Jim,
Follow this link for more info.
http://www.compcams.com/information/...SpringCatalog/
Thanks
Dennis
Follow this link for more info.
http://www.compcams.com/information/...SpringCatalog/
Thanks
Dennis
Hmm....so what I am getting is that the "pacalloys" we all talk about and run are actually considered the ProPac's then? I dont see any other springs that are called pacalloys....
Thanks Dennis, and by the way....welcome to the board.
Jason
Thanks Dennis, and by the way....welcome to the board.
Jason
Jason, here's a link to Comp Cam's catalog which lists the Pacaloy springs...
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/303.html
I didn't look that hard, but the first mention I found of Pro PAC springs was on this page...
http://www.compcams.com/information/...82_Page-14.jpg
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/303.html
I didn't look that hard, but the first mention I found of Pro PAC springs was on this page...
http://www.compcams.com/information/...82_Page-14.jpg
Jason,
The Pro-Pac spring is just a "new and improved" longer life alternative to comps proprietary alloy "pacalloy" spring. Some claim as high as 10 times the life of a tradition pacalloy spring.
Thanks
Dennis
The Pro-Pac spring is just a "new and improved" longer life alternative to comps proprietary alloy "pacalloy" spring. Some claim as high as 10 times the life of a tradition pacalloy spring.
Thanks
Dennis
Originally posted by airflowdevelop
Jason,
The Pro-Pac spring is just a "new and improved" longer life alternative to comps proprietary alloy "pacalloy" spring. Some claim as high as 10 times the life of a tradition pacalloy spring.
Thanks
Dennis
Jason,
The Pro-Pac spring is just a "new and improved" longer life alternative to comps proprietary alloy "pacalloy" spring. Some claim as high as 10 times the life of a tradition pacalloy spring.
Thanks
Dennis
We had to change 3 springs after 3 passes at the track.

I'm a believer in the Manley NexTeks, another Racer I know has had Fair luck with the PSI stuff also.
supposedly by rumor (and somehow it seems true enough to believe) PSI's premium spring is the pacalloy. of course this maybe hard to believe...but this is why I believe it. the last 2 digits of the PSI spring are supposed to be the same as the pacalloy order # from comp....if you check the spring specs you will see this is true...the 2 most popular pacalloys would be the 947 and 948...PSI's part # is 1047 and 1048.....
Some food for thought
Dennis
Some food for thought
Dennis
Also worth noting, some cams are just hard on valvesprings. You can take two cams with near identical specification from different manufacturers and one may get twice the spring life. I don't pretend to know exactly why but I'd suspect it's in the lobe design..... closing and opening ramps.
Comp makes a good spring in the Pacs.... but I personally prefer Isky's toolroom springs over any other.
-Mindgame
Comp makes a good spring in the Pacs.... but I personally prefer Isky's toolroom springs over any other.
-Mindgame
Originally posted by Mindgame
Also worth noting, some cams are just hard on valvesprings. You can take two cams with near identical specification from different manufacturers and one may get twice the spring life. I don't pretend to know exactly why but I'd suspect it's in the lobe design..... closing and opening ramps.
-Mindgame
Also worth noting, some cams are just hard on valvesprings. You can take two cams with near identical specification from different manufacturers and one may get twice the spring life. I don't pretend to know exactly why but I'd suspect it's in the lobe design..... closing and opening ramps.
-Mindgame
The software plays a big part, as you know, 'Game.
It's not just the ramps, it's everything. Good cam design looks at lift, velocity, acceleration, jerk and the next 3 derivatives (Snap, Crackle and Pop, for want of better names). If those are controlled, the next biggie is getting the profile ACCURATELY ground onto the cam. This involves a nearly perfect master, and a stiff, balanced gam grinding machine. Maybe its no coincidence that some cam manufacturers dedicate one of their best cam grinding machines exclusively to Winston (Nextel?) Cup cams. 9000+ and flat tappets for a million revs is top of the heap in cam design/manufacture in my book.
Any little deviation, which isn't easily measured, can cause bad, not good vibrations...apologies to B. Wilson, one of my favorite composers. This plays havoc with springs. Spintron testing of systems is very useful here.
My $.02


