Which rod
So I'm a little confused. Are you going for 800hp or 1400hp?
If the latter then as MachinistOne said you probably don't want to go with a production block. Some might even tell you not to go with a 396.
If the latter then as MachinistOne said you probably don't want to go with a production block. Some might even tell you not to go with a 396.
Im looking for 800 RWHP so i take into account the crank horsepower and estimate for crank what i need and go over it a bit to be safe you think the dragonslayer can handle the job? for a crank
I've seen an S/C'd LT1 383 reliably make 1,125HP at the flywheel, using a Callies "Stealth" (aka "Magnum") crank and the 5.85" Oliver billet rods (you're looking at least $2,600 for the crank and rods). Keeping in mind that an S/C'd engine at that level has to make another 150+ HP off the nose of the crank, that would seem to verify the applicability of those parts to your turbo setup.
Lets check the math - because there appears to be something I don't understand.... you're using a turbo to boost, and you want 800rwHP, through a TH400. A really loose TH400 drivetrain might cost you 25% losses. That would mean you are looking for 800 / 0.75 = 1,067HP at the flywheel. Allow for 30% losses and you still only need 1,143HP at the flywheel. Do you have some other basis for estimating that you need 1,400HP at the flywheel? Adding 250-350 extra HP "to be safe" is not rational.
I've seen an S/C'd LT1 383 reliably make 1,125HP at the flywheel, using a Callies "Stealth" (aka "Magnum") crank and the 5.85" Oliver billet rods (you're looking at least $2,600 for the crank and rods). Keeping in mind that an S/C'd engine at that level has to make another 150+ HP off the nose of the crank, that would seem to verify the applicability of those parts to your turbo setup.
I've seen an S/C'd LT1 383 reliably make 1,125HP at the flywheel, using a Callies "Stealth" (aka "Magnum") crank and the 5.85" Oliver billet rods (you're looking at least $2,600 for the crank and rods). Keeping in mind that an S/C'd engine at that level has to make another 150+ HP off the nose of the crank, that would seem to verify the applicability of those parts to your turbo setup.
You better have dead nuts machine work and assembly.... I would also rock the block as well. Problem with Ricks setup is that he's not running it anymore, so don't look at that has a setup that will run consistantly with no maintence. I've seen close to 800rwhp setups pulled down after a year and they are hard to maintain perfectly, so a 1200hp setup is another ball game.
Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.
Bret
Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.
Bret
You better have dead nuts machine work and assembly.... I would also rock the block as well. Problem with Ricks setup is that he's not running it anymore, so don't look at that has a setup that will run consistantly with no maintence. I've seen close to 800rwhp setups pulled down after a year and they are hard to maintain perfectly, so a 1200hp setup is another ball game.
Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.
Bret
Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.
Bret
alright so the block isnt as strong as i thought? i had heard that the block when prepped right was pretty stout i was planning on taking it to a very reputable shop in my area for prep and assembly....they have alot of expereince in this area of high horsepower builds... but you say a diffrent block alright i can look into it the bowtie block would except my lt1 heads and intake cam acsessories? any other advice?
Why as in why use the block? or why use the intake? because i have the heads cam and intake sitting in my dining room is that a good reason lol



isnt the race master basically a lighter version of the dragonslayer?