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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:18 AM
  #16  
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So I'm a little confused. Are you going for 800hp or 1400hp?

If the latter then as MachinistOne said you probably don't want to go with a production block. Some might even tell you not to go with a 396.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jerminator96
So I'm a little confused. Are you going for 800hp or 1400hp?

If the latter then as MachinistOne said you probably don't want to go with a production block. Some might even tell you not to go with a 396.


Im looking for 800 RWHP so i take into account the crank horsepower and estimate for crank what i need and go over it a bit to be safe you think the dragonslayer can handle the job? for a crank
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:18 AM
  #18  
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Well if you want to be safe then just go for a Racemaster crank. It's not that much more and you know you're going to want to turn the boost up once in a while.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:20 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jerminator96
Well if you want to be safe then just go for a Racemaster crank. It's not that much more and you know you're going to want to turn the boost up once in a while.
isnt the race master basically a lighter version of the dragonslayer?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:29 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyPappis
isnt the race master basically a lighter version of the dragonslayer?
Yes, the advantage is not strength, it's lower weight and less windage.

Rich
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyPappis
Im looking for 800 RWHP so i take into account the crank horsepower and estimate for crank what i need and go over it a bit to be safe you think the dragonslayer can handle the job? for a crank
Lets check the math - because there appears to be something I don't understand.... you're using a turbo to boost, and you want 800rwHP, through a TH400. A really loose TH400 drivetrain might cost you 25% losses. That would mean you are looking for 800 / 0.75 = 1,067HP at the flywheel. Allow for 30% losses and you still only need 1,143HP at the flywheel. Do you have some other basis for estimating that you need 1,400HP at the flywheel? Adding 250-350 extra HP "to be safe" is not rational.

I've seen an S/C'd LT1 383 reliably make 1,125HP at the flywheel, using a Callies "Stealth" (aka "Magnum") crank and the 5.85" Oliver billet rods (you're looking at least $2,600 for the crank and rods). Keeping in mind that an S/C'd engine at that level has to make another 150+ HP off the nose of the crank, that would seem to verify the applicability of those parts to your turbo setup.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 12:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by rskrause
Yes, the advantage is not strength, it's lower weight and less windage.

Rich
You see, that's why you should always stick to talking to experts

I'd always heard they were stronger
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 12:10 PM
  #23  
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Whoa here killer, what's the rest of this combination? Please don't say this is a LT1 block because if you are asking about rods this could be a nice coffee table once it gets run.

Bret
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Lets check the math - because there appears to be something I don't understand.... you're using a turbo to boost, and you want 800rwHP, through a TH400. A really loose TH400 drivetrain might cost you 25% losses. That would mean you are looking for 800 / 0.75 = 1,067HP at the flywheel. Allow for 30% losses and you still only need 1,143HP at the flywheel. Do you have some other basis for estimating that you need 1,400HP at the flywheel? Adding 250-350 extra HP "to be safe" is not rational.

I've seen an S/C'd LT1 383 reliably make 1,125HP at the flywheel, using a Callies "Stealth" (aka "Magnum") crank and the 5.85" Oliver billet rods (you're looking at least $2,600 for the crank and rods). Keeping in mind that an S/C'd engine at that level has to make another 150+ HP off the nose of the crank, that would seem to verify the applicability of those parts to your turbo setup.
I had estimated about 1200 so i was alittle off i was just throwing the higher figure in for opion so you feel that the dragonslayer wont be up to the task? Alright this is a good learning expereince for me so im open to all critisisms and for the next post i was thinking a LT1 block could handle it Big ricks motor does it with alot more power to the ground then ill be wanting to make but again open to all critsism the engine is going to be for a street strip car so i figured it wouldent really see abouve 7k rpms its going to be using a port matched intake with a monoblade throttle body along with fully worked Trickflow castings from lyod elliot and quite a sizeable turbo cam i forgot the exact specs and psi springs with ttitainum locks and retainers with 62 cc chambers i was planning on a 8.5.1 compression as well as a compitent wet sump system to back it up anything i may be missing?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:59 PM
  #25  
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1100 flywheel horsepower can be had with:

gm forged crank
manley h-beams
weisco pistons
most any 220cc head
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 09:16 PM
  #26  
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You better have dead nuts machine work and assembly.... I would also rock the block as well. Problem with Ricks setup is that he's not running it anymore, so don't look at that has a setup that will run consistantly with no maintence. I've seen close to 800rwhp setups pulled down after a year and they are hard to maintain perfectly, so a 1200hp setup is another ball game.

Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.

Bret
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
You better have dead nuts machine work and assembly.... I would also rock the block as well. Problem with Ricks setup is that he's not running it anymore, so don't look at that has a setup that will run consistantly with no maintence. I've seen close to 800rwhp setups pulled down after a year and they are hard to maintain perfectly, so a 1200hp setup is another ball game.

Your weak point here is the block, nothing else. The rods, crank, pistons are going to be important but a Dart or Bowtie block with a Eagle setup in it is stronger than a LT1 block with a Bryant Crank and a Carrillo Rod.

Bret

alright so the block isnt as strong as i thought? i had heard that the block when prepped right was pretty stout i was planning on taking it to a very reputable shop in my area for prep and assembly....they have alot of expereince in this area of high horsepower builds... but you say a diffrent block alright i can look into it the bowtie block would except my lt1 heads and intake cam acsessories? any other advice?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #28  
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With a lot of work ( a whole lot of work) you can get the block to use the LT1 intake and opti and whatnot. But you have to ask yourself "why?"
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 10:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jerminator96
With a lot of work ( a whole lot of work) you can get the block to use the LT1 intake and opti and whatnot. But you have to ask yourself "why?"

Why as in why use the block? or why use the intake? because i have the heads cam and intake sitting in my dining room is that a good reason lol
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JohnnyPappis
Why as in why use the block? or why use the intake? because i have the heads cam and intake sitting in my dining room is that a good reason lol
oh and i have an lt1 block sitting in the basement as well i figured it would be strong enough properly setup



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