Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
Re: Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
#8 looks that way 'cause it was loose. Don't really see anything to be concerned about. Ya are using a little oil and probably some leaded gas has passed through it.
Last edited by 1racerdude; Jun 23, 2006 at 12:01 PM.
Re: Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
Thank you! That was one of the reasons given for a fuzzy plug along with an improper gap. The other possibilities were more serious.
Lean air/fuel mixture
Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine
Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head
Overly advanced timing
I will run the car for a little while and pull the plug to see how it is progressing. Thanks again for your reply and thanks to the thread starter for allowing me to barge in.
Lean air/fuel mixture
Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine
Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head
Overly advanced timing
I will run the car for a little while and pull the plug to see how it is progressing. Thanks again for your reply and thanks to the thread starter for allowing me to barge in.
Re: Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
Originally Posted by 01Z
Thank you! That was one of the reasons given for a fuzzy plug along with an improper gap. The other possibilities were more serious.
Lean air/fuel mixture
Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine
Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head
Overly advanced timing
I will run the car for a little while and pull the plug to see how it is progressing. Thanks again for your reply and thanks to the thread starter for allowing me to barge in.
Lean air/fuel mixture
Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine
Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head
Overly advanced timing
I will run the car for a little while and pull the plug to see how it is progressing. Thanks again for your reply and thanks to the thread starter for allowing me to barge in.
Remember ya have to pull timing with the NO2. 100 shot SHOULD be OK(can't guarantee that) with stock timing anything over that is 2* per 50HP shot to be really safe.
Use .035 plug gap.
Re: Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
O1Z those plugs look flat WORN OUT to me. See that rounded off electrode? That is exactly the kind of thing that over works your ignition system. Spark wants a sharp edge to jump off of. The electrode erodes and rounds off, the gap opens up and stresses the secondary, idle gets rough, it'll still run because you have a good ignition system, but the electricity will be searching and lookin to go to ground some other way and it will take a lot more voltage to fire a plug like that. Change your plugs once in a while, bro! And if you like running nitrous, an extended tip plug is not the way to go.
Re: Reading plugs to determine rich or lean
Thanks, thanks and thanks!!
Here's a picture of the plugs to compare:

left to right - Autolite 103, Champion stock, NGK 4177 TR6
Here's the tools I used to change the plugs:

early morning long shadow. The first six plugs took 3 hours. The #8 was about 30 minutes because I had to drop the starter. I used the shorty socket with 3/4 wrench for it. The #2 plug took 2 hours the first time, an hour the 2nd time and about 15 minutes the last time. Every bit of patience was gone with that one
. My arm and hand is cut and bruised. I stupidly used a 5/8 deep socket on all six of the other plugs and got away with it. After breaking TWO NGKs (the autolite worked fine) it dawned on me that I wasn't using a spark plug socket. After that purchase the socket would release from the #2 plug after tightening withOUT a cracking sound.
I'm pulling 4 degrees with my 100 hp shot. The reason for that is I have a hypertech plus power tune installed
. I've kept the powertune because when NOT using n2o, the car runs much better with the hpp than with the stock tuning. I can verify that with numbers from my g-tech RR.
Anyway, thanks again! I'm lucky to have gotten some experienced answers on this. And thanks also to wicked_95z for the use of the thread.
Here's a picture of the plugs to compare:

left to right - Autolite 103, Champion stock, NGK 4177 TR6
Here's the tools I used to change the plugs:

early morning long shadow. The first six plugs took 3 hours. The #8 was about 30 minutes because I had to drop the starter. I used the shorty socket with 3/4 wrench for it. The #2 plug took 2 hours the first time, an hour the 2nd time and about 15 minutes the last time. Every bit of patience was gone with that one
. My arm and hand is cut and bruised. I stupidly used a 5/8 deep socket on all six of the other plugs and got away with it. After breaking TWO NGKs (the autolite worked fine) it dawned on me that I wasn't using a spark plug socket. After that purchase the socket would release from the #2 plug after tightening withOUT a cracking sound.
I'm pulling 4 degrees with my 100 hp shot. The reason for that is I have a hypertech plus power tune installed
. I've kept the powertune because when NOT using n2o, the car runs much better with the hpp than with the stock tuning. I can verify that with numbers from my g-tech RR.Anyway, thanks again! I'm lucky to have gotten some experienced answers on this. And thanks also to wicked_95z for the use of the thread.
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