I am doing a rebuild on my lt1 and converting it to an lt4 at the same time, I am having a hard time picking out piston rings. I am going with a set of Keith Black standard size pistons with grooves of 1/16,1/16,3/16. Due to my location I can't (don't trust) having my block bored.
OK here are my question:

1. who makes the best rings to go with around the $100-$125 price range?

2. File fit or exact fit? I was reading up on the pistons I have and they require a top ring gap of .029, is that normally what it is? For that reason I am leaning towards file fit.

3. how hard is it to file fit rings? is it pretty easy or is it an art form?

4. what is the low tension oil ring all about? is that supposed to be a plus?

5. seeing that i am not boring out my block I can't seem to find many rings that are for a standard bore most are .005 over, Is that what I should use or should I go with standard bore?

6. I read that lt4 engines were upgraded to a positive twist top ring, is that something I should be looking for or are most after market performance rings good enough where I don't need that?

Thanks in advance
John

 

1.I like the Speed Pro Plasma Moly file-fits. Seat immediately and hold up very well.

2. File-fit will get you the exact gap you want.

3. It is easier with the ring filer available from Summit and others. I think they're pretty inexpensive. You can do it with a hand file as long as you take your time and be careful.

4. Low tension rings free up a few hp at higher rpm's, but generally will use oil on a street car. I never run them on any street car of mine, N/A or blown.

5. .005 over is a file-fit for a standard bore. This is what you'll want if you go to file fit. If your bore is correct the .005 over rings won't even go in the bore without filing some.

6. See #1. That's what I run, even on a 1000 hp engine. I also ran them on a 383 LT1 in a 93 Vette. I threw away the Total Seal rings the builder installed as they used a lot of oil. The Speed Pro's completely cured the smoking and oil useage (standard tension oil rings).

Jody

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MY CAMARO

 

I agree with Jody, the speed pro's are a great ring set. If your on a budget you can get into the regular molies for about $45 a set. The lt4 oem ring pack is metric and your aftermarket is standard so don't get caught up in the lt4 spec's. Stay away from zero gap rings. That .029 seems a little wide for na, but close for n2o or artifical atmosphere.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I think I will take Jody's advise and go with the speed pro plasma moly file fit.

John

 

Yeah, I'm starting to see the low tension problem now, I have low tension JE file fit rings in my car right now and she does smoke a bit. Hence why I'm looking for a vaccum pump to help the sealing.

 

i have smoking and oil consumption problems (1 qt every 1000 miles-more if i get on it)w/ my 396 je piston/ring package set up.

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'97SS, More Performance 396, AS&M cold air, Grotyohann LT, SLP 2ODL muffler, Magnacor, PCMFORLESS PCM, LS1 twin piston calipers, KVR crossdrilled and coated rotors, SLP stage II w/ KYB AGX, 6M, Star Stage II.

 

My rings are Speed Pro File Fit..Gap on the top ring is .021...Bottem Ring is .018..I have 600 easy miles on the motor and its still smoking at start-up and at WOT..Is it true the rings will seat faster if you take it up high in 1 gear and just let out and let the rpms fall? Im hopin it will quit using oil sooon but I dont know what a normal time frame is or how many miles approx. till they seat..Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Cody

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97 30th Anniv Camaro SS#2374~ Forged 383 w/4 bolt mains,Pro5.0,LT4KM,Pro Performance Heads(288in/216ex@.600"),GTP-6 cam,Comp. Magnum 1.6" RR's,Chromoley Pushrods,Edelbrock Double Roller,MeziereWP,52MM BBK TB,Hooker LT's w/ Custom 3" Y-pipe,Borla,SLP CAI,30# Inj.,OBD1PCM,SPEC Stage 3 Carbon
Old Setup Dyno #'s on Stock Bottem-End NA~ 370rwhp/353rwtq


My SS

E.T.F.A East Texas F-Body Assoc.

-Kiss my SS-

 

Cody,

I'd take a look at the heads (guides and seals) and the intake (sucking oil from underneath). Those rings seat very fast, at least mine always have. I have them in a blown 540 that only has about 30 tuning miles on it so far. There is no smoke on start-up, acceleration, etc. I have had intake problems on the LT1's in the past as well as giude problems on heads that were "just gone through". Also many of the new aftermarket heads use poor guides that will start using oil almost immediately (less than 100 miles).

Jody

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MY CAMARO

 

Is the only way to tell if the intake is sucking oil to take it off?
How much oil can the car go thru if this is happening?
When you mentioned guides do you mean if you have aftermarket guides?
I have a oil consumption problem that started at 20k and has continued to get worse. Leak down & compression test were ok and I just replaced valve seals. Car doesn't seem to smoke even on a dyno
I'm going thru a qt every 600 miles

Thanks
Tom

[This message has been edited by TCAL95Z (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

Just went out and drove my car and it smokes very little when I get on it but when I come to a decel it starts smoking the most..What causes this?
It doesnot smoke at all when sitting there idleing..Should I go with a thicker weight oil or something

Cody

 

Cody,

Usually guides and/or seals. Under decel the vacuum is very high and if the guides or seals are worn it'll pull the oil into the cylinders and smoke as it burns out the exhaust. Unfortunately, different weight oils won't cure this. You need to have someone check out the heads. The seals can be replaced with the engine in the car with the correct tools, but guides will require the heads to be removed and taken to a good machine shop.

9 times out of 10 the above scenario for me has been guides.

It COULD also be a leaking intake gasket. Rare, but it happened to me on a 93 LT1.
Jody

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MY CAMARO