Ok folks, its time to bring out the big guns. I need serious help. I currently just put together a 383 LT4 motor. I'll give the low down on the motor first. I bought the assembled shortblock and assembled heads & intake from the same guy, so i'm not to familiar w/ the specs on the heads.

Fully Ported LT4 castings by EB Porting w/ ported LT4 intake
2.08 int 1.60 exh lightweight valves new
triple valve springs new
GM 14011051 Guideplates new
Comp Hi-tech 7.200" chromemoly pushrods 4K miles old
Comp 1.6 NSA Pro Mag Rockers 4K miles old
ARP poly locks 4K miles old
Crane 10535 High lift small base circle cam lifters new
Comp custom grind 242/248 .585/.588 112LSA cam new
Cola 4340 3.750" stroke Crank new
Manley 4340 I beam sportsman rods new
Probe forged flattop pistons new
Melling oil pump not the m155hv but the identical one w/ the thicker flange
ARP oil pump drive shaft
GM drive stub 4K old
w/ factory cut valve covers.

Now, i've been having this unpleasant tick that I can't seem to get rid of. It only does it when the motor is at operating temperatures. It runs like a champ when it is cold. I've adjusted the valves close to 6 times now trying to work it out but it just won't go away. Once the car is warm w/ valve covers installed i use my stethascope and the ticking noise gets worse as you move towards the back on the drivers side. Its making the ticking noise on both sides I just for some reason focused on the drivers side more.
The rocker studs as far as I can remember all of them were torqued to 65 ft lbs. I certaintly hope I didn't forget one.
I did a piston to valve clearance check and everything checked out fine.
I checked the valvetrain geometry and the required pushrod lenght is so close to 7.200 to where its not even funny.
I will say the motor wasn't broken in the best way possible, I had problems w/ plug wires not on 100% and then the incident of the clutch fork working lose and jamming itself against the pressure plate (my first M6 car) so the car is smoking a little bit, i'm hoping it will go away with time once the rings get fully seated. I've got close to ~250 miles on the break in. Does anybody have any idea on what could be making this horrible noise!? Any help is appreciated, I thank you in advance.

 

i had a very similar problem that turned out to be the pushrods contacting the guidplates

U-- the bottom of that u is where i had contact

i would remove the pushrods and check to see if you have any wear in there on the guidplate and check to see if the pushrods are all beat up

 

How did you solve that, just grind them down a tad bit where the U is? I'll give them a check, but keep the ideas comming everybody

 

my buddy owns a machine shop and i had him end mill them down just a bit, but i am sure you could prolly use a dremel and a good metal bit or something, you dont need to remove much at all and make sure you dont touch the sides where there is supposed to be contact

 

About how much would you say I'd need to cut off?

 

first find out weather or not that is actually your problem by checking for wear on both the pushrods and guideplates

i removed about 1/8 inch of material in a half circle shape, but make sure only at the bottom of the guideplate (or bottom of this U), if you touch the sides at all they will be ruined