Whats the most hp yall have heard of on Scat I-beam forged rods with a 3/8 cap screw? Im know i messed up by buying them for my motor. But i want to know just how far i could push them before they break. I should have went h-beam.

 

For what motor?

 

sorry 5.7 chevy 350 and if it makes a difference 5.7 length also

 

I would trust them past 500 with lightweight pistons and not over 6500rpm.

That was common for prepped factory rods for years before affordable aftermarket was available.

 

~700rwhp is the most I've seen. Lots of nitrous and the guy went through a bunch of pistons but the rods always lived. He was running high 5's in the 1/8

 

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/Product_Questions.asp

Call them and ask.

 

Or E-Mail them.

 

i know what they recommend. I just fiqured out that them rods in my motor is going to be the weakest link. Im debating on whether i should pull them back out and put in some h-beams. I have already had my motor balanced and everything, short block assembled and ready to bolt my heads on. Im just trying to see how far people have pushed these rods past the recommended 550hp.

 

Changing your mind in a combination costs money. What was the original plan for horsepower/rpm and what is it now? RPM is more important than HP when picking a rod. What do you plan on turning it?

 

Yeah i relize its def. gonna cost some money to do. But I hate to tear apart later to fix whats left after a broke rod. BUt when i first bought the rods i was under the impression the rods would hold up to 650hp, and at first i was thinking i would be lucky to get that. But as my build went on and i read what other people was getting with their setups i think it could be more than that. And on top of that finding out that the ones i have are recommended up to only 550hp, i just aint sure what i should do. Im am buildin a procharged motor. So i have a little adjustabilty, but with the rods being the only thing holding me back to more horsepower i just aint sure. But i wasnt planning on turning more than 6800 or so.

 

If the rods are the only thing holding you back then yes, change them out and rebalance the crank. It could be easy to hit700hp and add that to a missed shift here and there and you might have problems.

 

It really doesn't make sense to talk about a HP rating for rods. Other than the OEMs, I am sure there is no standardized testing procedure and the ratings are almost certainly just made up. So, the way you asked your question is good. You didn't ask for a hp rating, though some have mentioned them.

On the one hand, rod failures are awfully rare on street motors, even with power adders. OTOH, a better rod isn't much more $$$. It depends on your budget, IMO. I wouldn't use less than a Compstar in a blower motor. And I wouldn't advise SCAT's "stock replacement" on ANY blower motor regardless of budget as I think it's just asking for trouble. SCAT H-beams would be fine, but that's where budget comes in. With comaprable ARP 2000 bolts for the SCAT H-beams, the Compstar is ~$100 more and that seems like a bargain to me. Think of it as a little more than $10/rod. If your budget is VERY tight, I would seriously consider the wisdom of building a blower motor unless it's going to be low boost. And I would not use SCAT's stock replacement rod.

Rich

 

Thats my problem. I have it pretty much built, now im considering taking it back apart to put h-beams in and have to have it rebalanced. The rods are Scats mid-grade forged i-beam rod. It has the 3/8 cap screws that hold the caps on. Its not the better 7/16 cap screw or the weaker 3/8 stud w/ nut (stock style) that holds the cap on. But i do know if i decide to pull it back apart its gonna cost since ill have to prob. have it rebalanced. Oh yeah i was planning on running 12-15 psi boost max.

 

pull the rods, if you break one you f-ing kick yourself.

I wouldnt run a i beam on a 600+ hp motor, especially if it turns past 6500 rpms.

 

Some of the best rods made are I-beams. Including the Oliver's I have in my motor.

Rich