its my first motor,
i'm being conservative

 

Me too! Wait, I've got it! I've finally beat mindgame and everyone else to the simple solution! I'm going to get a cam cut half w/ small lobes, and half w/ big lobes. I'll got hydraulic roller on the smalls and solid roller on the big!!!! LOL...no mindgame, you really shouldn't even comment on that.

 

sent you some sound clips let me know if you can't open them
Jim

 

Hi, I didn't get any e mail or private messages, so if you could re send another one, I'll see if I'm getting them. I am very curious to how this cams going to sound. -Thanks
As far as the cam, I can now say after reading all these comments, that it should be big enough and produce enough power. At first I thought it might be to small cause of posts like this http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=ex+230%2F242
This is the step up blower cam, which seems a lot wilder, but around the same specs as the cc306, so I don't know how well it would work with a blower, but it is surely big. So what is the optimal psi I should run with this cam. My goal is around 600 fwhp, maybe a little more. I figure if I'm going to throw all that money into an expensive bottom end plus the price of a charger, I might as well go all out, especially if you guys think it needs a bigger blower. I was intending on using 12-14 psi, any more seems like it might be trouble.

 

Mr. James: what blower are you running, what CR, and what heads? In general though, if the blower flows in the 1000cfm range and you have decent heads and exhaust you will be able to make in the 600rwhp range (with a manual tranny) and should see boost in the 12-14psi range. This would be true using any of the XE cams that have been mentioned (214/224, 224/236, 230/242, etc.). Though as I said before, unless you absolutely can't get over the internet myth that "bigger is always better", you should go with a smaller rather than a bigger cam. Peak hp gains of 20-30rwhp at the top, if it's at the expense of drivability and low end torque, is a poor tradeoff for a street car. If you truly don't care about drivability and low end, have springs that will handle the lift and good heads, etc., there are some bigger cams you could consider. It's all in what you want and what parts combo you are running.

Choosing the correct lobe center is important, as is determining how much advance to have ground into the cam. The blower will need to "tuned" to match the cam by correct choice of pulley sizes to maximize the benefit of the cam.

Good luck.

Rich Krause

 

Very well put Jason. I for one am very happy with the results so far from this cam on stock heads. You can't beat the bang for the buck you get from it.

 

I got all the "advance look" you need. Check out the video of the hotcam and stock headed LT1 hanging with a bone stock 2001 Z06. It's in the kill section. The Z06 is barely pulling away. Awesome.

Jeff D.

 

Jason, had the best answer to this yet.

A hotcam is a good inexpensive upgrade. It works, but I would recomend a ZZ3/4 GM Cam (not TPIS) on stock LT1 heads instead.

No doubt it works well enough though.

Bret

 

While we are doing cams the "advanced way" Id like to discuss big cams on stock bottom ends for a bit. I have QUICKLY earned a reputation on this forum as the "cam scrooge." People are litteraly email/IM/Pm/Flaming me inpost about how i'm trying to "**** on everyones parade" because I'm sorry about my cam selection (which I am to an extent, but that has nothing to do with this)

However, I must be thick headed because I cant understand the point of a radical (236/242) cams on stock bottom ends. Some of these cams will rev beyond what the stock bottom wants to rev safely and what the average set of LT1 castings flow. Granted some can make them flow very well- like phil, but the average person doesn't port like phil.

If the relativly puney LT4 HC revs 62-6400- I can only imagine the 236/242 cam. And some wanting to go up to the 242/248 . I cant see revving that high in a hydro roller without a rev kit, good lifters, and stiff springs.

Then some bring up the point of shifting early because only 15-25 peak hp will be lost.
first off, why not get a cam that will allow you to stay in your powerband?

second- aside from the 20hp (which doesn't come easy at all), you lose the gearing advantage. now your fighting the next gear for the 300 rpm instead of holding the previous shorter gear for that amount of time. Plus now, your lower in your powerband and have to fight your way back up into your power range.

Maybe this is all just miniscule and neglegable? The only answers I ever get are "wait till I get my __(insert expensive rebuild here)__" or "its still fast" second only to the all might "it pulls hard through the whole band" responces that in conjuction with 4 quarters will get you a dollar anywhere .

After seeing so many "bigger is better" cam responces, I'm seriously wondering what I'm missing.

Thanks in advance- (hehe no pun intended- thanks in advance, andvanced tech )
Trey

 

you guys are making me rethink my cam selection...

 

That's kind of the point to this whole post.

As in?

 

Trey,

This whole post is about that, why use a bigger cam on a stock bottom end? You hit the nail on the head with that one.

The "bigger is better" theory on cams is the problem, nobody will ever feel the change in their butt from a ZZ3 vs a LT4, but they will on the track. Too many internet "leg humpers" make broad choices for everyone based on their butt dyno. (leg humpers is my term for the lemming metality where everyone has to do what everyone else is doing. It's also a funny mental image, like a one armed money trying to hump a football. Man that still makes me laugh)

Most big cams are going to make your car feel like a monster at 6000rpm, but all that time you could be getting up there quicker with the ZZ3 cam and the 20 ft lbs more of TQ it makes down low.

The whole reason for camshaft selection is to maximize the power in the useable RPM band. Average power wins races, not peak.

Bret

 

I'll also add that I street raced a mustang once with over $7k of mods done to the engine and tranny. My car was basicly stock with the exception of gears and shifter. We did two dead launches, and I yanked him off the line and kept him off my tail both heats. His cam definately was wrong for his combo. He had to launch so high that he had trouble controlling wheel spin. I was a "seasoned" street racer on pep boy tires and handed his **** to him twice. His engine sounded like a monster from hell, yet in the 1/4, his car was useless on the street. Hope this exemplifies cam choice. It was said that he had over $7k of slow...
He would have done better putting part of that money into suspension and tires...
It's not what is perceived to be faster,...it's who makes it to the finish line first.....

 

I too would be interested in the replies to Trey's post above. I would like to hear what some of the more "experienced" members of the board have to say. I know treys post is mainly regarding my car, but I have allready talked to him about it and the board isnt a place for it anymore. So keep the replies coming.

Brian

 

OK,

I'm building a forged 383. I have lingenfelter ported LT4 heads. I have a 2800 vigilante.
Before my 2800 stall I had 4.10's and I thought the car ran great.
now with 3.23's and the 2800 vigilante it runs good but I think I need more gear.
I think with my stall I need my power band in the 3-3500 range
I'm currently running the hot cam in my stock headed car.
I thought I wanted something in the 306 range for more power and thump.
My machine shop said the hot cam would probably be better because the 306 makes most of it's power up top.
What do you guys think works best for these heads?
I'm having the machine shop flow and cc them and then match a cam to them.

I want 400rwhp na and then spray a 100shot on top of that for 500rwhp

Do the LT4 intakes have a worse problem sealing than the regular intakes? I noticed someone mentioned that in this thread.
Is there anything that can be done to fix this?