Hey guys I am building a 370 LT1, max rpm of ~8500, All-Pro heads, Shaft mounts single plain, cola crank, Eagle 4340 rods(L19) yada yada yada..It will also have a lot of nitrous used as well

My question is what all should I do to the block? I wanna keep this as affordable as I can, but I want it done right.

I have looked at site like these and they all offer pretty much the same service but the prices are drastically different.

http://www.sehrpower.com/blockprep.htm

http://www.cncblocksnortheast.com/

Is any of the lifter and cam truing gonna get me any where or am I just wasting money?.

Also I am going to do a half fill, is that something I can do myself? Should this be done before or after machining?

Should I run roller cam bearings or stay with the stock style?

I am planning on putting the debris screens and stand pipes in the lifter valley and of course 4 bolt splayed billet caps. Should I get billet #1 and #5 caps as well? What about a stud girdle?

I am planing a DCR right around 9.1 and around 3-400hp of nitrous(with race gas of course). Can a cometic seal all of this or should I O-ring and use a copper shim??

What other areas should I look into to prolong the life of this thing??

Thanks for your time, any and all info is appreciated.

 

I wouldnt waste my money on that for a fairly budget build but you should get the block decked for sure and have the block tanked before the fill and fill it before machining. I dont know about everyone else but I have sprayed 300 on a cometic with no issues.I dont know how much is gained by running roller cam bearings but I do know that there are some insainly quick cars out there running non roller bearings so for the price I dont know if there worth it

 

Great, thanks for the info. Is there a special Cometic or are they are the same??

I think I can run a Bigger diameter cam if I do the roller bearings, is this true??

 

It will cost ya about 500.00 to do the roller cam bearings.
The factory installs the cam bearings and then line bores them. Don't think your local shop can do it. The truing is worth it in the block.

 

Truing the cam bore, or getting the roller bearings installed seems to be the same price so that kinda makes that one easy.

Is there any disadvantages to the roller cam bearings other than cost??

This will be a limited street engine.

 

Is any of the lifter and cam truing gonna get me any where or am I just wasting money?. Should I run roller cam bearings or stay with the stock style?

By the time you do this kind of work, you may as well can the LT1 and get an aftermarket (Dart) block, Gen I style. You are talking about ~$3,000 or so in block prep if you include 4-bolt mains.

Also I am going to do a half fill, is that something I can do myself? Should this be done before or after machining?

Before. It's not hard to do, but done wrong will ruin the block.

I am planning on putting the debris screens and stand pipes in the lifter valley and of course 4 bolt splayed billet caps. Should I get billet #1 and #5 caps as well? What about a stud girdle?

You don't need a stud girdle. The other stuff is needed to run 3-400hp nitrous on a small block.

I am planing a DCR right around 9.1 and around 3-400hp of nitrous(with race gas of course). Can a cometic seal all of this or should I O-ring and use a copper shim??

Talk to Cometic, but I think it would work. As I stated above, the LT1 is not a logical starting place for a max effort build. You will be limited wrt head and intake choices unless you start adapting stuff, in which case why bother with the LT1 in the first place.

Rich

 

Thanks Rich.

I know the LT1 isn't a good starting point but I already have Converted All-pro 227's(CNC'ed to 255), converted intake, one piece crank, DFI for the LT1 ect ect so I'm kinda in to deep to turn around now LOL

I saw a write up somewhere about a "strap" on the number 5 main, between the cap and pump. What does this do and would my application benefit from it??

Any other areas of concern on the LT1 block for the abuse I have planned??

I know it doesn't make sense to build an LT1 but I'm just too far along to bail now.

Thanks
Troy

 

If ya put in the rollers ya will have to get another cam.
If ya have a 4 bolt block use Program 3 center caps and ARP studs. If ya got a 2 bolt dot't try to build it.

 

I don't have the cam yet so that shouldn't be a problem, but you lost me on the block.

Are you saying to only use a 4 bolt block and not to convert a 2 bolt?? I have heard mostly the exact opposite of this. Can you explain? I was going to have a 2 bolt converted to splayed 4 bolts as I thought this was stronger??

 

The difference between straight and splayed has been in debate for years.
I didn't know ya were going to convert a block.
.

 

Ah ok, yeah a set of 2 bolt main would be rather short lived in my application

I talked to a couple different builders(VRE,Golen) about block options and all seemed to recommend a splayed billet cap.

 

 

CNC Blocks NE is very good. In fact for what you are doing that's a place I would recomend. I've had blocks from Carl and they are excellent.

I wouldn't try to do what you are doing without the lifter and bore true. I would also hard block and do a center 3 4 bolt conversion. You can strap the rear cap and run a new front cap as well if need be

Bret

 

Thanks alot Bret, I guess I will just have to save a little more money.

I was looking at The Pro-Gram and Callies caps.Callies offers a full set(all 5 caps) and straps for less than 600, so I think I will get the caps from Callies at least, but I still kinda want a stud girdle, just for peace of mind really if nothing else.

Does anyone know who makes a good stud girlde for the SBC? I can only find the ebay ones.

 

I would let whoever is doing the work to put the caps on choose.

Don't put a stud girdle on a SBC if you can help it.