I hear that.

Mine goes to 0* at 1/2 throttle or more.

Mike

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1994 Sunset Orange Metallic Camaro Z28 Convertible - The Gorgeous and Sadistic Bitch Who Mistreats You and Lets You Down, Yet You Still Keep Her


1989 Red Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible - The Dependable Girl Who Treats You Right, Yet Your Mind Wanders Elsewhere

 

Above 3000 rpm I have 0* timing pulled and just manually adjust with Boost Retard **** in car. Forget the KS or KM, you won't get anywhere

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94 Z28,M6,355ci,8.9 CR Vortech S-Trim w/Aftercooler,Tunercat Prog.,DIY desensitized KM, Forged Internals,Port.&Pol. Heads w/3 angle grind,Bal.&Blue.,Crane 215/224-532/532-112LSA cam, 1.6 RR & Fireball HI-6R Ignition ,36# SVO Inj.,Magnecor Plug wires,Edelbrock Shorty Headers with Flowmaster,High Flow Cat,BBK 58mm TB ,K&N CAI,Luk Clutch,Eibach Pro-Kit w/Panhard Rod ,Global West SFC's,RK Sports 5-way adj. shocks & LCA's, Slotted Rotors, Auburn Posi w/Motive 3.73, Niche J-series 18" rims 10.5 rear,9.5 front,Autometer F/P & A/F & Boost Gauges ETC.

 

Just an FYI, I tried the resister mod again and for whatever reason, I no longer have the knock. This is the very same resister that didn't work last week...what gives? I've driven the car for a few miles and the guage hasn't moved from 0.0

 

You could have had a ground problem. I noticed that you stated that you grounded the resister to the frame in a previous post. Did you do so this time? It is not uncommon for there to be a resistance or ground difference between the engine and the frame/body despite the ground straps. The PCM is grounded to the engine. You should make the resister ground to the engine.

(P.S. I got a 7 ohm difference between my engine and the frame ground with the engine running despite 3 good ground straps)

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1987 Trans Am GTA WS6
5.7L SuperRam
4L60-E Trans
3.73 SRD

1987 Pontiac Fiero
3800 Series II SFI
4T60-E Trans
3.33 Final Drive

1987 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab
4.3L Vortec TBI
4L60-E Trans
3.42 Final Drive

1966 Plymouth Belvedere II
318 Semi-Hemi 2bbl
Torqueflite 727 Trans

http://dtcc.cz28.com

 

why do we need to know that you have a fiero, an S-10, and a Belvdere? Just razzing you but seems like unnecessary information...

Correction, the Fiero can stay . But it could still be on one line

 

I ran the ground to the same place I did before using the same wire and resister. Someone else, who has had their knock sensor and resister hooked up to a switch, mentioned that sometimes you have to drive it a bit before the knock goes away totally and other times it goes away right away.

 

Which wire coming from the computer is the KS wire?
Thanks
Brandon

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95 Z28 Silver, 6Spd
Mods: Mac Headers/Y-pipe/ offroad pipe, Taylor OVC Wires, Cutout, Pro 5.0, K&N FIPK, GMS Strut Tower Brace,!MAF Screen, !TB Coolant, 1LE Bellow, LT4 KM, Gutted Cat, CSI Electric Water Pump, 160 Thermostat, NGK TR55's,

 

It seems to me that perhaps a change in the source code or just a zeroing of the KS is in order. What would happen if GM had hired an employee that had forgotten to hook up the KS plug on say 4,000 cars? They would loose their butt in warranty repairs from blown motors. It seems to me that this 9* retard with the KS unplugged is somewhere in the source code or other calibrations on the PCM. I would go along with what Rich said and zero it with Tunercat or what ever your editor program of choice is. It seems like quite a fantastic fix if you are CERTAIN you are not picking up any knock.. flase or real.

 

Good question, guess I never got around to shortening my quote on this board.