When I put together my Cam Motion setup with a GM847-style cam, I spoke at length with both Cam Motion and Comp Cams about what valvespring I needed. Comp recommended the 977 springs, which are a traditional cylindrical-shaped dual spring with a dampener. After getting an OK on those spring specs from Cam Motion, I bought and installed the sprpings.

At least on paper, the 977s satisfy all of the requirements that Cam Motion gave me. Were those springs the "right" choice? For example, would I make more power going with a beehive-style spring?

Links to relevant reading material would be very appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

It depends. Doesn't it always?

IF there is valvetrain instability with your current setup you might see it reflected as a power loss at higher rpm range somewhere above 5500. It could be very obvious on a chassis dyno graph, or it could be insidious and the power curve would break over like you expect it to, but if you got rid of the instability the power might continue to climb, peak later and higher or peak and hold on without rapidly falling off.

How to tell? Cam Motion should be able to either 1) predict where your power peaks and how fast it falls off based on your total combination, or 2) analyze your chassis dyno graph for possible instability.

If your combination is performing up to par, there would be only minor gains from going to a beehive. To review what has been said many times: The 'hives have less mass near the top of the spring, the retainers are smaller and lighter (Ti not usually eneded), and the 'hives don't have as many resonances as straight springs.

All of that allows lower seat load as well as lower over the nose load. While that might free up a pony or 3, the main advantage is less overall load on the valvetrain bits, so less deflection, which leads to more accurate valve motion and maybe longer life. Again, it depends on your combination. If you are trying for 7000+ (can't imagine why), you might possibly need different springs, and probably stiffer pushrods.

"If it ain't broke..." Check to see (dyno) if it is.

Good luck,

Jon

 

As Jon said, if what you have is adequate, there is no gain to upgrading. Kind of like ignition current. There is little to no gain from going beyond the current a stock system delivers in most applications. IF the aprings you have are good enough, they are good enough. If not, substantial amounts of power can be lost. Testing (Spintron, dyno) is the only way to be sure. In theory, the cam manufacturer should have done this already. That's why their recommendations are the best place to start. An experienced tuner/driver may be able to detect subtle valve float. When it's severe, there will be no question.

I suspect your springs are perfectly adequate. Beehives have a lot of theoretical advantages in that they may allow valve control with less spring pressure. That reduces wear on parts and heat production compared to just using stiffer springs. That is not trivial - in some cases high springs pressures can break parts in short order. It has happened to me - everything else needs to be stronger in the valvetrain and in the parts of the head taking the load (stud boss). OTOH, the well publicized problems with the Comp beehives makes me wonder if the manufacturing process for beehives is even more critical.

I am conservative and have not yet jumped on the beehive bandwagon.

Rich

 

We'll get you away from using starting fluid as an anesthesia yet, Rich.

Ask Bret about his latest (good) beehive experiences.

Jon