Identify these I beam rods..HELP
Identify these I beam rods..HELP
I need to find out what kind of rods these are in my stroker. THey are 6" rods and the only marking on them along the rod is.... ES
and on the caps and rod there is a number 00829
anyone have an idea what kind of rods these are?
also I looked for a number or some kind of marking on my crank and the crank is bare...nothing, no kind of numbers marking or anything....anyway I can find out what kind it is? its not a GM crank, I know that.
and on the caps and rod there is a number 00829
anyone have an idea what kind of rods these are?
also I looked for a number or some kind of marking on my crank and the crank is bare...nothing, no kind of numbers marking or anything....anyway I can find out what kind it is? its not a GM crank, I know that.
Obviously, w/o markings you are not going to be able to ID the crank. You can tell if it's cast or forged by a visual inspection though. Wide parting line = forged, narrow parting line = cast.
As far as the rods go, some pics would help.
Rich
As far as the rods go, some pics would help.
Rich
heres a picture of the rod and also I picture of the crank....I dont understand what you mean about wide or norrow partting lines so that whys theres a picture of the crank too
rod

crank

thanks!
rod

crank

thanks!
I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to explain where the parting line is. You need to take a picture along the long axis of the crank, showing the surface of the "cheeks" to see the parting line.
Rich
Rich
yeah I kinda thought that the ES stood for Eagle ..I just didnt know for sure. Im gonna have to call them tomorrow and ask about the numbers on the rods cause I cant find it on their website so they may be discontinued or something.
About the crank I mine donet look like any of those..maybe cause mine in internally balanced? The yellow is overspray cause the block used to be painted yellow.
heres the crank..Im hoping it the same spot as in the pictures above.
About the crank I mine donet look like any of those..maybe cause mine in internally balanced? The yellow is overspray cause the block used to be painted yellow.
heres the crank..Im hoping it the same spot as in the pictures above.
What do your rod bolt caps say on them? Most companies are using a proprietary rod bolt that is labeled with their brand:: Scat, Eagle, ect.
Eagle rods have had "ES" on them ... although lots of rods from different years, forgings, ect have had a number of things on them. ES isn't specific to every Eagle rod so it isn't 100% identification.
How old are the parts?
Brian
Eagle rods have had "ES" on them ... although lots of rods from different years, forgings, ect have had a number of things on them. ES isn't specific to every Eagle rod so it isn't 100% identification.
How old are the parts?
Brian
I have no idea how old they are...I did not put them in the block. I would say at the most 3years old.
on the top of the cap there is nothing. on one side of the rod there is the #00829 and on some I see the number 02326 and S4 09
so I have no clue
on the top of the cap there is nothing. on one side of the rod there is the #00829 and on some I see the number 02326 and S4 09
so I have no clue
I believe it is a cast crank. Another way to tell is to set it on end on a hard surface and gently tap it with a hammer. A forged crank will ring like a bell, a cast crank will sound more like a "thud".
Rich
Rich
ok I called Eagle and they told me that the rods are 5140 I beams...forged good for 550HP...that scares me cause I want to use nitrous on this motor but I should be ok...Im hoping
and about the crank, I set it on end on the garage floor and tapped it with a hammer and it chimed just like a bell, didnt make a thud, it made a ringing sound.....but I wish I knew exactly what kind it is.....so with what you saying it should be forged?
and about the crank, I set it on end on the garage floor and tapped it with a hammer and it chimed just like a bell, didnt make a thud, it made a ringing sound.....but I wish I knew exactly what kind it is.....so with what you saying it should be forged?
In your picture of the crank it looks like all parting line indicators were
removed during balancing. If you look at the other areas rising from the
main journal to the rod journal the forged/cast parting line should be
visible. Either way you should bring it to a good shop and have it
checked, they can tell you if it's forged and what work needs to be done.
************************************************** **
After thinking about this some more, it looks like every trow was modified
and drilled to lighten it. If you were to drill a cast crank like that it would
be really weak, therefore it's a good possibility it's a forged piece.
removed during balancing. If you look at the other areas rising from the
main journal to the rod journal the forged/cast parting line should be
visible. Either way you should bring it to a good shop and have it
checked, they can tell you if it's forged and what work needs to be done.
************************************************** **
After thinking about this some more, it looks like every trow was modified
and drilled to lighten it. If you were to drill a cast crank like that it would
be really weak, therefore it's a good possibility it's a forged piece.
Last edited by automotivebreath; Aug 21, 2007 at 07:29 PM.


