The other thing to think about is the quality of the metal used in making the spring wire. A 26000 series Comp spring uses a much cleaner spring wire than a standard old 987 or 977. True the dual spring is safer if one fails, but they are also more likely to fail and add more weight to the system which means you need more pressure to control the valve as well and you are stressing the parts more.

BTW the Comp R's can take more seated spring pressure than you need to make that cam run correctly.

Bret

 

Yea, I seem to remember a dance like that.
I was speaking from a safty standpoint,it is not likely that both springs will break at the same time and cause big damage.

 

After thinking about this way too long I have ordered the Comp 26918 springs.
It boiled down to the simplest procedure at this point, plus it's good to hear that
they should eliminate float for my combination, if that's what is going on. All
I have to do is swap beehive for beehive. If this solves the problem I will make
another dyno run and post the results. If not, then it's time for new dual springs,
seats, seals, retainers and locks.

 

If the 918's don't fix it then we are probably not dealing with a valve bounce issue. It's usually bounce that causes the lifter pump up not float. Fuel or ignition issues are usually the next culprits but we know you have had a hell of a time with everything on that setup.

Bret

 

Thanks for the clarification on the bounce. It really does make more sense
that the mass of the combination (valve, spring, rocker, pushrod and lifter)
is such that the spring pressure is not adequate to hold the roller on the cam
and results in bounce. As an additional mitigating measure I will also swap out
the 795-16 steel retainers with the 794-16 titanium retainers. I just need to
find them for a good price. Hopefully in the $150 range.

I do have another question. Is it acceptable to chamfer the inside of the base
of the 26918 spring to allow it to sit flush on a LT4 spring seat? If I swapped
out my .062" seats for the .040" LT4 seats I would get an installed height of
1.77" (vs. the current 1.75") and a closed pressure of 139# (vs. 146#). Or is
this just too stupid to mess with?

 

Keep the 146 #'s on the seat. Springs are shot peaned and prepped before they leave the factory so it's better not to screw with them.

Bret

 

If you take 146# and subtract 20-25# after break in what do you have. 120-125 would be the minimum seat pressure I would use.
Like Bret said DON'T grind on your springs,unless you want trouble down the road.

 

You can prep springs, but it should be a rule for most guys to not touch them. They are made idiot proof so you don't need to grind on them before you install them.

Bret