This is going to be a kinda long write up so bear with me here.
Im having my engine rebuilt into a 383 using the eagle crank #10350375057I And well my problem is the last counter weight wont clear my oil pan. Unless they chop the crap out of it and weld it up and do alot of massging. Well hes given me not to many options here. First off massage the stock oil pan resulting in 160$ of labor. Or get a new oil pan. But he tells me the kits on summit that say they will fit wont fit unless they massage it like the stock oil pan. He tells me that from his experiance the only pan that will fit without any work to it is the milodon pan # 30909. The problem here is, it has no hole tapped for a low oil sensor ( i dont really care about this one since i check my oil) CAn i have this sensor deleted by a mail order tune? I could have a hol drilled and tapped but i dont want to cut up a brand new pan. Also anoter problem with this pan is the kickout on the bottom he, says it probaly wont clear the oil filter, so he wants me to disregard the oil cooler and completley get rid of it. Does this make sense to you guys. I was under the impression that its there for a reason, but he seems to think itll be ok with out it. Right now im leaning towards the milodon pan, since it has extra capacity and it will fit without working over (what he says). Whats your opnion on the matter? please help me out.
Steven

 

Is it Gen1 SBC or LT1? oil cooler delete is common on the LT1 as the oil cooler reduces oil pressure, i'm not so sure about the guys opinion on the pan though, if its a LT1 lots of people build LT1s with the stock pan...

 

It's certainly not that difficult to clearance the stock pan. You'll need to clearance 3 areas of the pan..... the rear counterweight, the rearmost connecting rod, and the bottom of the pan where the 1 & 2 rod swing at the bottom of the stroke.

The counterweight and rear rod clearancing need only to be done where the pan goes diagonally towards the centerline of the block, and can be done with a medium size ball peen hammer. You may also have to grind a notch in the pan rail supports to clear the pan.

The 1 & 2 rod clearance can be don with a plastic dead blow mallet. You can set the pan on without a gasket and rotate the crank, then pull the pan and look for the marks left by the crank/rods. Or better yet, use an old gasket with the ends cut off, using only the pan rail gaskets. This will give you a true indicator of how much hammering you need to do. Make sure you use at least 4 corner bolts, and tighten them to keep the pan from moving around.

I can do the whole process in about 10 minutes. I would think even a first timer could do this in about an hour.

Good Luck

 

Canton's road race pan has those holes and will clear. Ya need to CALL them as they will have to modify one to clear the steering,which they do but don't advertise it.