>When replacing the cylinder heads , and using studs how hard is it to remove the heads with the engine still in the engine compartment ? Is it going to be a "PITA" ? I know it wasn't to bad to remove the stock heads and install the AFR heads with ARP head bolts , but the APR head studs are longer . And the cowl seems like it would be in the way ...
Also which head gaskets can get reused for the LT1 ?

 

Head studs well require R&R of engine to remove heads
The only head gaskets you can reuse are dead soft cooper.

 

>That's what I was afraid of .
But do you know which gaskets (part #) are able to be reused ?

 

I heard from someone who has head studs they CAN be removed, its just not easy but that it can be done, sure wish I could remember who it was.

 

http://www.scegaskets.com/

You can check out SCE for a copper gasket for your engine. One note... the surface finish is very critical to ensure the seal of a copper gasket. Make sure the shop doing the surfacing knows what you intend or you'll have a hard time keeping things sealed.

-Mindgame

 

>I haven't installed them yet (ARP #134-4001) head studs still new in the box , but now I'm wondering if I should just buy new ARP head bolts instead . I could always keep the studs for another engine .
The SCE copper gaskets ... are they safe to use with a supercharger ? I hope the surfaces are finished correctly whether using copper or traditional head gasket they should still straight .

 

Personally, I'd use the studs and a standard composition type gasket. So you have to pull the engine in the event of a failure. I'd rather pull the engine than sacrafice clamping.
From memory.... the copper gaskets require a surface finish in the 20 - 30 RA range or better. That's really smooth, smoother than most shops can surface with conventional equipment. Not a problem for "race-engine" build shops though as it is more the norm. Any way you can talk to the machinist who performed the work?

-Mindgame

 

>The engine was built from Nu-tek Motorsports (Nick Norris) .
If I don't use the studs then there is no reason to get the copper gaskets . I was only doing this in case I decided to buy the bigger AFR heads than the 195 (64cc) that I have now .

 

Might want to give Nick a call then since this is his build. I'm sure he wouldn't mind giving you advice in this area.
To me... pulling an engine is not that big a deal as I've done quite a bit of it over the years. That's why I'd stay with the studs and use a composition gasket. Best of luck.

-Mindgame

 

I see no reason why studs would effect whether you have to pull the motor or not to yank the heads.

so, to answer your question.. use the studs.. it will take a little longer to pull the heads(have to remove 32 nuts then 32 studs).. but they can still be easily removed in the car.

 

Pulling the heads while the studs are still in the block will be difficult when still in the car. As mentioned above, you can just pull the studs if you need to pull the heads. Studs should only be finger tight in the block.

Using a copper head gasket usually requires the block to be o-ringed also.

 

When I talked to SCE about running copper head gaskets, I was told I would have to o-ring the head or block or both for best results. Even with the head off and the motor out the studs can be kinda hard to get out.

 

Copper head gaskets do not work well on street motors. It seems they aways leak. Maybe it's due to the finish on the heads and the deck, but they always seem to leak a little. This is not ann issue with a race motor, but would be an annoyance on a street car.

How often do you plan on pulling the heads anyway? It's only an issue to me when there is also a need to pull the motor. IOW, it's hard for me to figure the circumstances where one would want to pull the heads without the need to do other things that require pulling the motor. Maybe if you were running a really wild solid roller that ate valve springs? Of course, it is possible to do springs without pulling the heads anyway. Anyway, my contect is that of a street car, maybe you are thinking of something else.

Rich Krause

 

just a FYI no one mentioned....

ARP studs now have an allen head built into the top of the stud to aid in installation/removal

 

>I plan on changing out the AFR 195 heads with some larger AFR 210 or 220 heads . That is the reason for the head studs and copper gaskets .

>I went down to the basement and checked out the ARP studs and what do you know ... there are allen wrench accessibility to the studs .
That may change the need for head bolts , but the gasket (head) may not be the copper ones .