Good place to by ZZ4 crank? Should I use it or stocker?
03-09-2004, 11:40 PM
#1
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Good place to by ZZ4 crank? Should I use it or stocker?
Doing a budget 355 rebuild right now and will be shooting for 440 RWHP now, with a max of 515 RWHP later on when and if I find a deal on a good used Vortech. I will be using studded two bolt mains only. Since I'm using two bolt mains .....is it a waste of money to step up to a better crank as long as mine magnafluxes ok? In other words, "is the stock crank just as strong as the 2-bolt block anyway"?
Anyway, I was thinking a good cheap forged upgrade would be the GM ZZ4 one piece rear main seal steel crank. Who'd have a good deal on this ......Dallas Slabaugh?
Anyway, I was thinking a good cheap forged upgrade would be the GM ZZ4 one piece rear main seal steel crank. Who'd have a good deal on this ......Dallas Slabaugh?
03-10-2004, 04:52 AM
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If you plan on a blower, an upgraded crank is a good idea. Keep in mind that the crank will need to be balanced to your pistons and rods and that this is not a cheap operation. The ZZ4 crank may not be as cost effective as you think in that regard. Like any GM part, Dal or Jason Cromer are the places to go.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
03-10-2004, 06:45 PM
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I'm new to engine building so I'm a little confused here. I have been told that my assembly will be externally balanced since it's a one piece rear seal. I'm getting new rods and pistons anyway, so what difference does a new crank make when it comes to balancing ....if any ...?
03-10-2004, 08:13 PM
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It will still need to be balanced against your rods and pistons. This is true whether the balance is external or internal. It would be cheaper to have it balanced externally however. Factory motors with one piece real seal are typically externally balanced. If you do a search you can read some discussions of internal v. external balancing.
Rich Krause
Rich Krause
03-11-2004, 08:44 AM
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I have a ZZ4 crank for sale. It has been offset ground .020" for an effective stroke of 3.50".
It was run 5,000 miles before we took it out. I'm looking for $205. It's not new, but I'd rather the crank that was offset ground anyway.
Ben T.
It was run 5,000 miles before we took it out. I'm looking for $205. It's not new, but I'd rather the crank that was offset ground anyway.
Ben T.
03-11-2004, 11:54 AM
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With the 1 peice rear main seal cranks, you'll need a fly/flex plate thats made for the bolt circle of the crank, if you use a factory fly/flex, it will have a weight on it to offset the lack of weight on the flange that the earlier cranks had. just bring it in with the assembly when balancing, also the front dampener on these is neutral , so you'll be fine with any neutral balancer there.
03-11-2004, 06:29 PM
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Sorry but you all are talking over my head. I need this spelled out for me as a "yes' or "no" please:
Will balancing cost a lot more with the ZZ4 than my stock crank? (I am getting new pistons and rods anyway)
Will the SLP lightweight flywheel work with the ZZ4 without any issues?
Will balancing cost a lot more with the ZZ4 than my stock crank? (I am getting new pistons and rods anyway)
Will the SLP lightweight flywheel work with the ZZ4 without any issues?
03-11-2004, 08:36 PM
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If you are getting new rods and pistons EITHER stock or ZZ4 will have to be balanced.
Since both are designed to be EXTERNALLY balanced and set up for the same pistion/rod combo, balancing THEORETICALLY will be the same either way...
External will PROBABLY be cheaper, but my shop quoted me $175 for a external job, but they were gonna look at balancing it internally....they ended up doing it internally for the same price, and said the crank was close from the start....
Since both are designed to be EXTERNALLY balanced and set up for the same pistion/rod combo, balancing THEORETICALLY will be the same either way...
External will PROBABLY be cheaper, but my shop quoted me $175 for a external job, but they were gonna look at balancing it internally....they ended up doing it internally for the same price, and said the crank was close from the start....
03-11-2004, 08:38 PM
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flywheel will NOT be a problem....just note that it is PROBABLY set up for EXTERNAL balancing, and will have to be used with a external balanced set up, or zero balanced by the shop.
Double check if the SLP is external, but I am pretty sure it is...
Double check if the SLP is external, but I am pretty sure it is...
03-12-2004, 12:59 PM
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Thanks for the replies, but it's still a bit fuzzy. Can you all answer these questions?
- I am sticking with studded 2-bolt mains; that being the case is it a waste of money to step up to a forged crank? (in other words, will the studded 2-bolts give out long before the stock crank ever would)?
- Why should I expect balancing to cost more with the ZZ4, or should I? Should I expect it to be a LOT more $$$'s?
- Double check here; the ZZ4 is keyed ..... correct? (I was thinking I will buy the keyed hub from Thunderracing.com)
- I am sticking with studded 2-bolt mains; that being the case is it a waste of money to step up to a forged crank? (in other words, will the studded 2-bolts give out long before the stock crank ever would)?
- Why should I expect balancing to cost more with the ZZ4, or should I? Should I expect it to be a LOT more $$$'s?
- Double check here; the ZZ4 is keyed ..... correct? (I was thinking I will buy the keyed hub from Thunderracing.com)
03-12-2004, 04:36 PM
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The balancing will cost the same wether you use a ZZ4 crank or a stock crank. The keyways are the same and the engine will be stronger with the steel crank period. Now which will go first the crank or the block is pretty hard to tell. Now I have a fresh ZZ4 crank for sale that I was going to use but decided to go stroker so I am looking to sell it for what I paid it $200. Ifd your interested LMK Later Clint
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