Can anyone give me a detailed layout of exactly what needs to be done to go carb on a 96 T/A What I know is I need a carb,gm intake or modified single plane.take off opti-spark & put a cover plate on,MSD dist w/crab style top,fuel pump,maybe a cell,what about key switch,after computer is gone will key still enguage starter without mods.Am I forgeting anything.I have a digital 6,what about a coil....Thanks for any help...

 

C'mon guys Lloyd Elliot said I could post up this question & someone would help,I guess he was wrong... Thanks anyway..Does someone at least know if the key will start the car with the computer gone,or will a new ignition switch have to be put in...

 

Are you building a street car or a track car? Do you need to keep the speedometer working? Stock tachometer? If you are going carb, are you also committed to eliminating the stock ignition control? Did you consider keeping the Opti to satisfy the stock PCM's need for the low resolution pulse pattern? If you don't have that signal, the PCM won't control the fuel pump. And you need the PASS key system removed amd wired out. What trans are you running? If its a 4L60E, you have a problem without the stock PCM. If its anything else, you will be OK.

I think your lack of response was in part due to a lack of complete information on what you were trying to accomplish. If you throw away the stock PCM, you can supply the fuel pump with power, hook up an alternate source for a speedo signal, and wire your ignition switch direct just like on an eralier setup.

There are a number of threads regarding carb conversions on Advanced Tech, and on LT1 Engine Tech. You need to use the "search" feature to find them.

 

Thanks,getting rid of pcm all together,I have a turbo 350 trans,will there be a hot wire off ign.switch to power starter?fuel pump I can handle fans are taken care of...thanks again...I have searched the threads nobody really goes into detail,they just say get a carb,dist & intake & your set...

 

Someone just offered me their extra obd 1 pcm with a 383 tune on it to try,that might be an option if my pass key will work with it..the tune has been crazy on my obd2 pcm,had it tuned by speedworks & Wes had a confused look on his face the whole time trying to lean it out it would not respond to commands,had to finnaly tell it it had a bigger inj. to get it there but I think later it went back to the way it was,Like we were locked out.I am just ready to punt & put a carb on it...

 

If you need a gm LT1 dual plan intake I got a new one $200.plus shipping.Most people think we're NUTS for doing this swap!

 

I will keep you in mind,I may modify a single plane to work with AFR's ...thanks

 

wait, what exactly do you need to know? basically your getting rid of the entire computer system.

you need to run the fuel pump to some type of switch either manually or when key is in the "on" position. ive done a lot of race cars and i usually turn the key first and then i have a manual switch for the fuel pump. i know a lot of guys that do this in there old GMs, mopar, fords...whatever.

of course your keeping the black wire for the engine ground to starter...you also need to keep the purple wire from the starter to the igntion...that probably answers you question about not being able to start the car.

why are you going to a crab cap??? just get you a pro billet msd hei distributor. well you dont have to do hei if you dont want but just a regular distributor (mallory, msd, whatever).

your also going to need some fuel pressure regulators and turn it down some because of the stock fuel pump thats in the car. it has to be a return style regulator as well. you could use a returnless, but your just asking for the fuel pump to go...they are harder on the pumps (non-mechanical pumps).

The bcm controls the key pass thing correct?? Not the pcm. Otherwise, I have no idea how my car is running then

 

its not exactly that easy to do. the only reason i did it was because i had the money and i was bored and nobody around here has something like this. i also wanted to do it to prep the car for the bbc that its getting. that motor will be finished up probably next year. hopefully the end of this year.

theres a lot of different fittings you need to use for the new fuel hook ups, a lot of going through the wiring of the car...try getting rid of the bcm in a 96, it fuggin suck monkey butt. I'm still working on the bcm wiring, its a maze of wires that I no long need seeing has my new windows are fixed in one spot.

but honestly i think thats it...now with the 350 trans your own your own kid, i only drive manuals and i only know how to rebuild a manual trans. im sure if i looked into an automatic its the same stuff but i rather not. i took too long to learn how to do a manual trans.

oops!...i forgot one more thing, you can keep the stock coil for now as well. its just a coil, does the same thing. your just going to have to run a long wire to the dist. thats not good but itll get you by till you get a blaster or something.

 

Thanks..

 

yes sir, also start turning down the pressure right at 5 psi. You might need to turn it down some more though. I've got a manual speedo in the car right now but with your factory gauge cluster...I'm not sure if you can just wire it up from the vss to the wires that go into your gauge cluster or not? I'm not sure if you know how all this works or not but with your tach, there wires that come off of your distributor when you by one and those are for your tach. Again, not sure if it'll work with the factory gauge cluster or not.

If you have anymore just give me a holler.