alright i'm looking at running forged but i dont wanna bore my engine. Anyone have any sites for pistons that are stock bore . thanks

 

If you don't machine the block how are you gonna account for the increase from .0015 piston to wall clearance vs the .004 piston to wall clearance?

The answer is you have to hone it anyways, how do you know that you don't need to bore it out to clean up the cylinder bores enough? You don't till you tear it apart.

TRW and Kieth Black make pistons that are Forged and 4.000" but they are also not the strongest which is what I gather you are looking for.

Something like a Probe piston (which they make in a 4.000") will get you a piston that is now stronger. It's also stronger than your rods so you should probably make them stronger too or you will just break the weakest part.

Everytime I see someone just going to new pistons I end up talking to them about a just going to a stroker to upgrade the whole engine anyways (new stronger crank, better rods and new rings/bearings)It saves some time and only cost a little more to do it all the right way, but ....... all of that just opens up a whole can of worms. (i.e. Heads/Cam/100+ rwhp etc....)

Bret

 

I going to get the rods ect... i just wanted some sites with pistons

 

The big manufacturers will make up what you need. To do this properly, you need to give them a lot of information. See http://www.jepistons.com/pdf/customp...-orderform.pdf to get an idea of what you need to consider. The assumption is that you have prepped your block and have the measurements, You then buy a liston to fit each hole. You do not try to make the block fit the piston, which would be "bass ackwards".

The biggest choices you need to make concerns a light v. a heavy pistons. For an NA, high rev setup get lightweight pistons. If it's a blower car or high boost nitrous, you will need a stronger, heavier piston. The are similar choices in wristpins.

Rich Krause

 

Lunati (L350) and Ross (68063) both make good replacement forged Stocker pistons. I would stay away from TRW (LW2256), because the piston notches will not clear the valves with cams that have a lot of duration.
If you are going to run N/A, depending on how much HP you plan to make, you might want to stick to the factory parts. The motor in my Camaro has factory .030 over pistons and stock rods and crank (balanced). I cross the finish line at 7200 rpm.

Best Regards,

Daren

 

Rich, right on with the 2nd paragraph. Pistons need to be fit to what you want to do.

The first is a little confusing...... are you telling him to machine the block then get the pistons? or that doing that is not the way to go? Every piston manufacture I've seen has you measure the skirt in some different way and base the P to W clearance around that. I don't know how you would get the correct clearance without knowing what piston you are going to use.

Seems to me that a guy looking to not do machine work to the block is not looking for a custom piston, he could be. Just seems like a off the shelf is the way to go.

Bret

 

I'm sorry if I created confusion. It seemed to me he was thinking to find a piston to fit the block. What I have always done (when dealing with a seasoned block) is to first determine if it's usable. Then, do the desired overbore as well as decking, etc. then take measurements. That's the point where I fill out a piston order form. Once the pistons are recieved, that's the time to measure the pistons and finish the block. When I re-read my post, the first part didn't exactly make sense and didn't say what I meant. The original poster needs to measure his block to see what piston he needs, not pick a piston out of a catalog and assume it will be correct.

Rich Krause