In my posts I am referring to a manual temp water gage reading in the head.
Bret probably is too. But he will answer.

 

Yep, when you run them puppies at WOT from 4000-7000rpm for a hour on end in heat then the temps CAN creep up there.

Bret

 

I can never get my DCR to calculate correctly. I don't know the head volume with them having .01" shaved off (~56cc?), I'm unsure of the deck height of the block (not sure how much, if any, the machine shop took off), don't know what my exhaust timing is ABDC, and am unsure if I should use -5cc or +5cc for my piston volume (I have a -5cc dish and I thought neg volume would be a dome piston). Also, I know that cooling plays a major role in the DCR, but I haven't found a calculator that takes into consideration the temperature of the car.

 

The stock heads are 54CC's. If ya don't have that other info forget about figuring your DCR.

 

Why do the calculators not take cooling into consideration? Or, do you get a value from the calculator and then you have to figure out what kind of cooling you need to have? I want to figure this out because I never had even heard of DCR before I built the motor. I just went for higher compression with a big cam and good flowing heads. I'll get all of that info figured out.

 

Cooling is too much of a variable to figure on a public calculator.
Just go for the BIGGEST and BEST that will fit and it will work.
A 3 flue x 1" rad-- high volume pump,bigger(CFM) fans and Evans coolant will get it done.
I am running 13.3 static with a 9.1DCR on pump gas and a good tune.

 

Most ya'll aren't going to make enough Vol Eff % to worry about it all, and if you run a lower temp thermostat you will be fine most times.

Bret