On my intake I only cut off what i needed to get the distributor to fit. I had cut the hole first and just kept putting the distribuotr lower in the hole and clearanced where I needed it, but you can machine the whole back surface flat and just weld up the holes.
You don't need the egr or the egr tube .

 

Does anyone know the part number for the optispark eliminator cover. I guess there is a cover that gm makes which takes the place of the seal for the opti and fills the hole.

Thanks for the replies

 

I think the part # is 12367600

And oddly enough-
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=260466

 

Thanks.

Those that have done this mod im sure your not running the stock balancer are you? I dont want to spend 3-400 on a balancer just to get the timing marks. As most of you know there is no room on the stock balancer for tape. WHat did you do?

 

nope ATI balancer with a crank trigger, with timing marks and a pointer.

Your going to need to know where top dead center is so you can set up the distributor.

Do you have an aftermarket computer? and is it bank to bank or seq.

 

Bank-bank. Fast said I need to setup 50* before top dead center. I know where top dead is on my factory balancer. I guess I could wrap the tape on the balancer then just mark 50*.

 

Something I might try in the near future


Neal

 

Are you guys running the steel gear that comes with the distributor or did you throw the bronze gear on it? I was told you have to match it up with the way the cam was made. The factory gear that is bolted to the block is steal so if this is true I just leave it.....if not go with the softer metal? I dont know what are you doing?

 

Leave the steel gear

 

I got all my parts on friday. Hogan did a great job on the manifold. I ended up welding the opti seal and just throwing it back in. (45$ for that GM part is rediculous) It doesnt look like I will need to cut away any part of the car to get the distributor in. If the intake and dist are installed together, with the cap and rotor off, it makes its way in there fine. Getting it to drop perfect is kind of a pita. Those of you running the fast, did you encounter any problems at first? Did you setup your balancer 50* before top dead then drop the distributor in pointing a #1?

Thanks

 

WAIT! I spoke too soon I went to assemble everything today and the height was off. My distributor would not drop down all the way so I had to loosen the collar and now there is not enough room the clamp. I got .082" of clearance between the collar and where the distributor starts to bloom. I thought about grinding the hold down but I dont think that is a sufficant amount of metal to hold the distributor down with out bending the clamp.

I have said this once and I will say it again. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself...However in this case I dont have the equipment.

 

Only if you are the resident expert in EVERYTHING.

Few of us are. It's a small club. (I'm a charter member. )

Seriously, how about checking with Hogan. They may have some advice other than grinding.

My $.02.

 

Yeah it has to go back to be miled another 3/8". They said they set it up for a std 9" deck. Not sure if the LT1's are a little higher or if my AFR heads are giving it a little height. Anyway another $40 in shipping. I just hope I can get everything done and running for the power tour!

 

The Lt1 is the same height block & heads.

Did you get the oil pump shaft to align? If not, the distribtor will not go all the way in.

It is hard to do if the engine is in the car.

 

The intake manifold itself sits higher on the block(cored out underneath)that makes it difficult to get the slip collar high enough and still have room for the hold down.My intake has a pad about 1/4 inch high minus 4* and everything works fine.