Double Keyed Crank
Double Keyed Crank
I want to get a 2nd keyway cut into my crank.. Spoke to my engine builder, he said he can't do it and doesn't know where to point me.. Any ideas???
Much appreciated..
--Sean
Much appreciated..
--Sean
OK, I'll be the first to ask the beeding obvious: Why?
I don't thing there's anything super-special about the way the facotory cuts those little half-moons into the crank snout- round blade of the appropriate width shoved jsut far enough into the crank snout to let the key sit far enough in. But I don't know of a local machine shop that has the equipment to do that, either, let alone index it correctly.
I don't thing there's anything super-special about the way the facotory cuts those little half-moons into the crank snout- round blade of the appropriate width shoved jsut far enough into the crank snout to let the key sit far enough in. But I don't know of a local machine shop that has the equipment to do that, either, let alone index it correctly.
Why do I want a second keyway? Because I've broken about 10 keys with the single key design, and having a second one is the way to go on a 'larger' blower car..
InjectedSS: I am yet to see any forged new crank come with 2 keyways unless you specifically order it.. There's a keyway for the timing gear, and a keyway for the balancer, but, I need 2 keyways for the balancer.. And it is out of the car already
--Sean
InjectedSS: I am yet to see any forged new crank come with 2 keyways unless you specifically order it.. There's a keyway for the timing gear, and a keyway for the balancer, but, I need 2 keyways for the balancer.. And it is out of the car already

--Sean
I can't understand why any competent machine shop couldn't put a second hub key on the crankshaft. I actually saw the results of machining a 2nd keyway on George Baxter's Callies Stealth crank.... after his billet ATI hub cracked under the load of the S/C pulley.... with the crank still in the engine.
Did George have his crank made with 2 keyways or did he get it put in??
I just ordered a new Steel hub from ATI, it's a small block chevy inside diamater and a big block chevy outside diamete.. This way the keys have more to hold onto.. Hopefully it will help alleviate some of these problems..
I'll have to call around to some more machine shops.. My machinist does REALLY good work, but, he doesn't do a lot of performance type work.. Just not his thing.. But, after seeing how well he put together a friend of mine's motor, I went to him ..
--Sean
I just ordered a new Steel hub from ATI, it's a small block chevy inside diamater and a big block chevy outside diamete.. This way the keys have more to hold onto.. Hopefully it will help alleviate some of these problems..
I'll have to call around to some more machine shops.. My machinist does REALLY good work, but, he doesn't do a lot of performance type work.. Just not his thing.. But, after seeing how well he put together a friend of mine's motor, I went to him ..
--Sean
George had the ATI SuperDamper on a single-key Callies crank. The ATI billet hub cracked right at the keyway (I saw Madman's do exactly the same thing). George fixed his hub by getting a new one, and having a steel ring welded around the outside of it. Then.... WITH THE CRANK STILL IN THE ENGINE, AND THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR.... Second Street managed to machine a 2nd keyway into the crank.
Funny thing was, he ran the stock GM hub with a single keyway machined in it for years, and it never broke. It was only after ATI came out with the SuperDamper and we both bought one.... maybe early 2000, that he had any problems with breaking the hub. But the ATI hub is paper thin at the keyway.
Funny thing was, he ran the stock GM hub with a single keyway machined in it for years, and it never broke. It was only after ATI came out with the SuperDamper and we both bought one.... maybe early 2000, that he had any problems with breaking the hub. But the ATI hub is paper thin at the keyway.
I suppose this is why ATI designed this new hub.. Much larger area for the key, more meat around there, shouldn't crack as easily..
I'll let you know how it looks after I get it.. Should take about a month, plus you have to have your timing cover machined to fit the larger hub.
Maybe I'll call Second Street.. If they can do it inside a car, they should be able to do it with a crank outside
Thanks Fred..
--Sean
I'll let you know how it looks after I get it.. Should take about a month, plus you have to have your timing cover machined to fit the larger hub.
Maybe I'll call Second Street.. If they can do it inside a car, they should be able to do it with a crank outside

Thanks Fred..
--Sean
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