Keep in mind Larry,

Some of us may be using cheapo brand compression testers.

I use mine as a relative measurement, as opposed to absolute (if you know what I mean).

Maybe I need to be thinking about a new gauge?

As for measuring the differences between cylinders, it's good enough.

EDIT - Thanks for all the awesome info you've been posting lately!

 

Max Any chance too get the program Or a formula to make the calculation I.
I only will see the cam to make a deg in a couple of weeks.
Thanks.

 

If you over fueled the engine,or used excessive oil when install moly rings,you could have a situation called "slickout"on the walls with that "fine" of a hone job.The results is the rings will take a long time or may never seat.Moly rings require VERY little oil,maybe a FILM of light oil--Marvel mystery oil or 10W or ATF on a rung out soaked rag and no more on the cyl walls and a very small amount on the rings and piston.Then prelube the engine and fire it and hold it at 3000 for a minute or two and then fluctuate the RPM's.Any over fueling washes the walls and moly rings go to hell in a handbasket.Needless to say for any high HP engine I prefure ductile iron or gapless,they are more forgiving on breakin and will last a lot longer in a built engine with less blowby.
If you have to rering it,look at the moly's with a magnifying glass and see if there aren't chunks of moly missing.Moly doesn,t like excessive heat,dirt or a blower,or NOS.IMO they are good for a lawn mower,but I just never had good luck with them.C&A was giving me rings to be installed to there spect and hone and I wore out a block trying to get them to work,using their fit and hone spects.Went back to their ductile iron rings and never looked back.This reinforces what I found in the '60's with moly rings in a sprint car engine.They would last 1 race night and then needed a rering.Went back to Seal power ductile iron and run all season.Some people swear by them,but I can't.

 

Thats great info!! Thanx! I actually just blew the rear end so now the car is out for a while. My machinist said he would rebuild the short block and rehone the walls. I'll mention those rings to him.

 

9" OR 12 bolt anyone!!!See what your man says.I know they are spendy but I have been having good luck with the Total Seal gapless top set.If it's in your budget try a set,You'll like them.

 

Just bought a set! Those are some nice rings. Too bad you cant see them through the block.

The motor is stripped down and the walls were glazed... not as bad as expected but still.

Turns out that my distributor gear was wearing out prematurely. Now I need to decide on a composite gear that comp cams just releases and a bronze gear.

Decisions, decisions.

 

Would you run these numbers sir

185~190 cranking compression
112 cl
.003 preload
258@50 <<< sorry thats exhaust
252 on the intake duration.

 

Alright boys!! Everything isback in and back to normal. Well... with the acception of still fixing the rear.

Planning on the first start up this weekend!! I'll have to keep you posted on how that works out.