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Are CAT Brand parts good?

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Old Jun 23, 2003 | 11:32 AM
  #31  
Eric Bryant's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,400
From: Michigan's left coast
Originally posted by Jim S. '95 Z28
If I'm not mistaken, going with a shorter rod than your crank is set up for typically requires more mallory, since the piston is heavier. Going the other way around should make it easier to balance.
Not to sound stupid, but I always figured that the difference between, say, a "5.7 crank" and a "6.0 crank" was that the counterweights on the 6.0" crank were actually larger, as there'd be more room for counterweight under the piston and therefore you'd hopefully need to add less heavy metal. With the shorter rod, you'd be limited on how much room was available for the counterweight, and therefore may need to add more Mallory. I'm not sure if this is correct, though.
Old Jun 23, 2003 | 11:58 AM
  #32  
Jim S. '95 Z28's Avatar
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From: Where St. Augustine won't grow
Eric,

You're explanation makes sense to me. But in speaking with Callies, they advised against running 5.7" rods with one of their "6.0 rod cranks" 1) for clearance issues between the counterweights and piston skirts and 2) for balancing reasons, since the thicker/heavier 5.7" rod piston will require more mallory.

Maybe the counterweights on "5.7 rod cranks" and "6 inch rod cranks" somehow weigh the same Along those lines, I've never noticed differences on "total weight" of a particular model crank - say a cast SCAT - based on what length rod it's set up for.

That said, at running it this way ("5.7 rod crank" with 6" rods) eliminates the need to cut down the counterweights if the next rebuild calls is a short rod motor.

Last edited by Jim S. '95 Z28; Jun 23, 2003 at 12:01 PM.
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