You know, I think 99% of these answers could easily start off with "It depends".
I'm not a big fan of using chinese made products. They do make some nice rubber dog**** and stuff like that but for the most part I like to think I can buy american and keep more americans working.... even at a little more expense.
That said, and without turning this into a lecture on global economy........ CAT makes an ok product. It's ok for some things and not for others. The rods are pretty tough and they'll take a good amount of abuse. The cranks can be a little "off" so you should check them carefully for straightness, journal taper and phasing. Every builder around here has had dealings with CAT, Scat and Eagle cranks that weren't exactly precision pieces. But a good one will be good enough for a strong street/drag engine that doesn't need to make a bunch of 5,000+ rpm launches every weekend.

And yeah, the good american stuff is a bit pricey but there are options like Hank the Crank (who according to Hank himself builds his cranks here and buys american materials to do so). His stuff doesn't break the bank either... at least not the "bottom line" forgings. Another maker that doesn't get much mention is Lunati.... and there are alot of builders who won't use anything else but Lunati stuff. Of course there's Winberg, Bryant, LAE and a few others on the top tier but some like Callies and Cola build some more affordable stuff.

Personally I'd skip the CAT crank and go with a Callies, Cola or HTC. The CAT rods are ok though as far as I'm concerned. Just check everything or have everything checked closely.

-Mindgame

 

I agree.....i dont know too many people who've had a lot with the cranks.

Rods take a beating though

 

Pretty much all of the aftermarket rods/cranks have been fine for durability. The issue with the CAT parts in our experience has been the sizing and quality control issues.

If you purchase their stuff I would HIGHLY recommend being prepared to regrind the journals and resize the rods. Talk to a couple machinists and I think you'll find most are of the same opinion.

For the $40 or $50 saved you're right back at the original price of a Eagle or Scat piece but a little more frustrated and .010 'new' crank.

$.02

Brian

 

I don't know beans about CAT, but I do know I prefer to "buy American". I guess I am just not sophisticated to understand the "global economy". FWIW, my rotating assy is Callies/Lunati/JE. All made in the USA, AFAIK.

Rich Krause

 

I found it interesting that CAT is a contengency sponsor for the 2003 Engine Masters Challenge.

 

Could be but my rods were all in spec, all within the .5g the spec sheet said they were (i weighed them) and my machinist didn't have any problems balancing them with the crank/pistons either

 

My eagle rods were fine but the eagle crank which was supposed to be internally balanced wasnt, thy had to put heavy metal in the front to balance it. But it was only 40$, no biggie.

 

Ive known people to run over 950hp on n2o at 8000rpm on the 5140 CAT cranks, I use a 5140 CAT crank and H-Beam rods myself, no problems with em, they are good to 800hp/8000rpm - the only concern is the balance, but u should custom balance your rotating assemblies anyway so thats no big deal either. The sizing was fine, they arent the best products out there but since we buy at cost they are cheap parts.

I also use Probe racing pistons, they are as good as SRP's but because they aren't as known, they are slightly cheaper. Perhaps if CAT parts cost as much as Lunati cranks they'd trust em more?

Interesting fact tho - many companies use CAT rods and rebrand em under their own name.

 

Higher price doesn't always mean higher quality, in car parts or anything else.

Both of your good points needed to be made.

Thanks.

 

So have I. When you can talk directly to the company owners and hear what they have to say it is very beneficial. That is a big benefit of the contest. When all you need to start with is a good forging and you can double check everything like magnaflux, and X-ray. When you end up offset grinding the parts and your crank guy checks them you can always send a bad part back.

I'll be interested to see the parts and measure them too. BTW I will report back on the whole setup.

Bret

 

Nitro, I've noticed that too. They seem to sell for more or the same as CAT parts do.

 

FWIW, my Eagle crank balanced out just fine with no mallory at all.

But that seems to be the "issue" with communist parts - consistency.

 

Aren't almost all the eagle cranks setup for 5.7 rods only? (So if you use a different rod you have to add heavy metal?) - I know mine (forged) didn't require any heavy metal to balance with 5.7" Eagle H-beams.


Chris

 

I haven't ordered yet. plan to tomorrow but what I've narrowed it down to is an

Eagle Crank 3.750 stroke, internally balance for a 350 flywheel and balancer, made for 6.0" rods.

Cat 6.0" Forged H-beam rods

Probe Industries pistons 10.5 compression with 3.750 stroke and 6.0" rods on 64cc heads

all going in a 4-bolt main 1996 roller truck block topped with Ported Vortec heads, RPM airgap intake and 770 street avenger.

Cam choice is still on the table

 

Chris,

From my experience, Eagle cranks counterweighted for 6" rods seem to be more plentiful.

FWIW, my crank is counterweighted for 5.7" rods, but balanced just fine with 6" rods.

If I'm not mistaken, going with a shorter rod than your crank is set up for typically requires more mallory, since the piston is heavier. Going the other way around should make it easier to balance.