The oil on the complete longblock might be a problem.
Even 100% synthetic gets a little funky at -300F.

Seriously, IF one were to freeze everything, doing the pieces separately would probably be advised by the folks doing the work.

Just to be safe, wrap everything in pantyhose. It was suggested by one poster that they, too are helped by cryo, and they would essentially be "freebies".

Abstract thought: If cryo treating everythng makes it bulletproof, or much stronger, as is often claimed, wouldn't it make economical sense to use less pricey parts, like cast cranks, pistons and pm rods, as well as two-bolt blocks and run-of-the mill valvetrain parts, cryo them all then pour the boost or NO2 to it and get 6-800 rwhp with reliability at low cost? What am I missing here?

 

hmmm very interesting point.

I wish there was more "scientific" proof of how much this process truly affects parts and their resilienceness to breaking, cracking, or warping.

How many shops out there actually do cryo-treament on parts on a regular basis? If this proves to be a safe and effective means of adding integity and durability to parts, then I would plan on having everything important cryo-treated, like rear end gears, rear axles, posi units, driveshafts, etc.

 

I haven't spoke with Jeremy lately (motorsports rep for 300 Below). They had just began to do testing on entire motors the last I spoke with him. I asked what I should do with my combination and he told me to do the parts separately. I didn't do any of my bottom end b/c I switched to an H-beam rod and I'm using a 4340 crank. But I have had pretty good success doing rear-ends. I have done my pistons and rings in my new motor. They will not do wrist pins. Their # is 217-423-3070 or www.300below.com ask for Jeromy Hanover. He can answer any questions.

 

Yes i agree