So it's all good then

John

 

This has me interested in filling my block at least half way b/c I am rebuilding the engine and the heads are still off so whats the procedure? About how much block fill for up to the waterpump? Thanks for the info. Later

 

If you are not boring the block, you must do the fill with the mains torqued on and torque plates on the deck.(both sides)

I would do a 1/2 fill.

I would let a machine shop do it.


David

 

No problems here. In fact, it works so well that I plan on doing it to every
LT1 I build in the future. I use the half pour and engine and oil temps are within range all the time. I don't drive in 90 degree weather but I would suspect that things would be ok. I use a deep pan and have not seen excessive oil temps. Yet.

 

i have a question. this block filler you speak of, would it help if I have a tiny pinhole in my block?? the pinhole caused the engine to run extremely hot. could I just fill up the pinhole with block filler?? oh it's a ls1 so aluminum block and the pinhole is located in another hole so to speak. ( the holes that are right by the pistons.) ????????

 

I'm putting together a 383 ... Do you think bolting on the heads will work the same as bolting on torque plates? I really want to rock it, but I don't have the plates.

 

The cylinders should also be bored when filling a block (after filling).

rich

 

Really?? The HardBlok filler says it doesn't expand or contract when it hardens. Should I be skeptical of their claim?

EDIT: Yeah, I searched around and everyone (including HardBlok) recommends at least a honing after the fill.

 

If the block has been bored:

Put the main caps on and torque them top spec


Put the heads, or torque plates on and torque them.


Fill the block


Re-hone when done with everything still in place.


I just did one as listed above, came out perfect.



The new hardblok doesn't get hot like the old hardblok did.


David

 

If the block is aluminum, have it welded.



David

 

I meant honed, not bored. But you can't just fill the block - it requires machining AFTER the fill.

Rich

 

Mine didn't, was a 800 mile shortblock I bought..took it down, had it filled, honed it...perfect. No machining.


David

 

honed = machining

and I hope you don't think using a hand drill hone counts...

 

Come on man, my cherry ball hone is CALIBRATED



David

 

As has already been said...

From what i've read the procedure is to clean the block and have it checked for cracks. torque down the caps and fill it to the level you're filling it to on one side. tap it down, torque down the heads let it cure with the bank your filling level. Rotate the block so the other bank is level, tamp it down, fill it to the level, torque down the head. Take the block to get align honed, bored etc.

I read this in this forum quite some time ago but i'll be damned if I can find it now.