HI,

I need to do some block fill to the bottom of my freeze plugs. I have been told the freeze plugs need to be in the block for this and that the block needs to be level.

What is the proper proceedure for doing block fill and what kind should I use?
I'm building a 383 solid roller and I went thru in one of the water jackets.
I had the block fixed but have been told to be sure I should put some fill in it.

Thanks

 

Hardblok comes with pretty good instructions.

Rich

 

For those of us not planning to buy any hard-blok anytime soon, but who are interested in the answer to his question, could you hit the highlights for us?

 

Should be done BEFOR machining. If done after (not recommended) a torque plate the main caps and oil pan should be bolted up after pouring. If you have just one torque plate, do one side at a time. You could use a cylinder head.

1. It must be clean, clean, clean. First degrease, then use hot water and detergent.
2. Install freeze plugs and drain plugs.
3. Use a level to be sure it's level front-back and side-side.
4. Mix according to manufacturers instructions.
5. Start on one side and fill through a large water passage to desired level.
6. Use an air chisel with a blunted tool or a dead blow hammer to vibrate out ony air pockets.
7. Repeat on other side.
8. Wait at least 3-4 days but preferably >=7 days before machining.

Why did you make me type this out if you aren't planning on doing it any time soon?

Rich

 

I do plan on doing my asap. Thanks
What is the best type to buy?

Also, my machine work has all been done. I spoke with 2 machine shops and they didn't say anything about the machine work being done. If I put a head on there do you think that will be ok?
I will recheck all the machine work after I do it

Thanks

 

It will destort the block is why Rich said "before machine work". Don't care what anyone say's or don't say. If you can't stand another hone and size check for ALL bores then you will have to live with it. The grinding for clearancing should have been done before finish machine work, then you could have done the hard block.

 

The Hard Blok brand or Moroso's. I have used both with good results. What 1racerdude said though!

Rich

 

Something missed in the above instructions. To my knowledge, level means the top of the cylinders are level. That way the hard block fills around the bottom of the cylinders equally. If the block is sitting level like in the car, the block fill will not form the same around the cylinder. The inside wall won't be covered as much as the outside wall. You partially fill the block since you don't need coolent at the bottom of the cylinder since there's very little heat down there compared to near the top. Filling all around the bottom of the cylinder makes more sense to me than having the cylinder surrounded at an angle. This just means you can only fill one side at a time since you have to let it harden before flipping the block over to do the other bank.

My blocks are filled to the bottom of the lower frost plug. I never filled them myself. Since the block drains are now useless, I drilled and tapped a 1/4" NPT hole in the front sides of the block equal to the height at the bottom of the frost plug and installed some drain valves. This way I can easily access the valves to drain the block when I pull the engine. The factory block drains are too far back and usually behind the motor mounts to make access easy.

 

What were you doing that you went thru the water jacket?

 

Because NOW I can search for "Block Fill" and find your answer, any time I want it.

 

here are a few thing I did when i filled mine.

I used Muratic acid to clean the inside of the block first.

I went and found surgical tubing and ran it from the block drains to one of the deck holes. This gave me water to the Knock Sensors

I used The moroso filler. I used half a bottle per side. This was right at the plugs. The Pass side rear plug is lower.

I actually heated the block up till it was warm to my hand before filling(it was 30* when I started) and then left the heater on it after I poured and shook it

I did one side then a few days later i did the other side. I let it sit for a month and sent it to the Machine shop

Good luck!

 

Did you remove the tube afterwards or just cut it back to clear the knock sensor? Have you ran this yet to see if the knock sensor is working right? I've never used block filler before, does it harden enough to not fall apart with a "tunnel" through it?

 

Thanks for the info

What if I only need to do the block fill to the bottom of the freeze plugs?
Wouldn't the problem of the machine work not matter since i'm only doing a small amount?

Thanks

 

The heat from the curing process and the expansion of the filler will distort the block to some degree weather you use 1" or 1' of fill.
Check your dimensions before and after and see. I would torque the mains and get a honing torque plate and torque each side with head gasket to be used and the fasteners to be used on each side you fill. Fill one side at a time and let set for a couple of days before doing the other side.

 

Yes I did remove the tubbing when I was done. HERE Is a pic the block while I was letting it setup. Mains are torques with extra ARP lube so the Hardener does not creep into the threads. A spare set of heads and gaskets are torqued in place also. The ONLY Machine work done at this point is the main caps are mated to the block. We did not do the Main line till after the block was Filled.

The motor is not back in the car yet so we will see how it goes