This got me thinking about a pass key problem I had four years ago. One day I went out and tried to start the car nothing...We started to test the pass key system and ended up shorting something which deactived the pass key. Until I removed the bulb in the dash the sercurity light would stay on all the time. After you replied this message im wondering if something in the pass key is causing a short.

Anyone have any knowledge on the pass key system? I know how it works, the resistor allows x amount of current through ...etc. SO right now everything with the pass key is still hooked up but I can start the car with out the resistor in the key. Im wondering if a power wire might be grounded, etc. If anyone can give me more insight on this that would be great.

Thanks

 

dont go with a cap...wouldnt hold a charge for long enough to power that pump through a quarter mile or even up to 60 mph
i agree with limige...just something to cause people to part with their money

 

You can control the release of current with resistors. 144J in 1F @12v. Problem though. Cap at 12v wont help you any if your voltage is constantly dropping. You need something to bump the voltage up to 16V or so.

I have an idea on how to boost the voltage for cheap, if alternators work the way i think they do.

 

How much cheaper can you get than a Volt Blaster?
This item has an adjustment for normal and WOT voltage, a TPS trip point adjustment and a test switch with LED.
It is reliable and proven.

The circuit is fairly simple inside using a comparator BUT for all the hassle of a DIY solution...

 

Damn the voltblaster is only 60 bucks. Hell ya, thats a pretty good deal. I thought you guys were talking about the msd one!

Go for that!

 

If its an LT1 car then rewire the alt's regulator lead to ignition wire under the collum..The PCM may turn off the reg under full throttle..Run a ground wire at least 4 ga fopr the engine to chassis ground, same goes for the battery leads..My self prefer at least 3 awg but thats some expensive big stuff...Dont run car stereo wire or welding cable..Get some cable from a truck supply house as well as your terminal ends..Your factory LT1 alt should be 140 amps so that more tahn enough..The lead from the charge terminal should be at least 6 ga..Keep that lead as short as possible..Keep your grounds short as possible..The PCM can turn on and off the LT1 alt when it is programmed to..You can get a universal plug from a parts store and just tap into ignition voltage under the dash..Then run an external relay from your battery to your fuel pump..A normal bosh SPDT (single pole double throw) relay will work fine..Dont get a universla socket..Run 10 ga wire and use insulated terminals to wire it up..The main feed wich will be terminal 30 wil get wired to the battery with at least 10ga wire if the battery is up front and 12ga minimum if its out back..

On a side note caps do work I used then when i worked in NY at Franklin car stereo when a buddy paul and I built the IASCA triple crown winner back in 92..Its takes more than a voltmeter to read the effects and most moreso than not any amp with a regulated power supply will not have any adudble differences by the ear..Slap one on a PPI amp and hear little difference but then use one on some lightning audio or cheapie amp and there you go..You will notice the help if you run an o scope on the power supply and signal outputs just before the component clips.

 

It has been brought to my attention that my factory computer is possibly regulating the voltage under wot. I've noticed that my voltage only drops under wot, and always seems to drop down to 12.5 volts, nothing lower. Does anyone know if GM did this with the factory computer on the ODB1? Someone was telling me this is not uncommon.

Does anyone one know how I can take control away from the factory computer for voltage?

 

That is true..You can get a universal plug from auto zone intended to repair the lead and wire your S terminal to a voltage source..Dont use the L terminal as it needs 6 volts and will fry your alternator very fast..

Mad enterprises sells a kit to update an older car and it can also be used to reroute a new cars setup..I have to do this everytime i swap in an LT1 into another car..

 

What do you mean by L and S terminal? Theres only a small wire and a charging wire coming from a LT1 alternator.

What if you where to tap anthor lead off the battery to that little red wire. That would prevent any tampering to the voltage by the computer.

I always thought that normal car voltage was supplied threw that line and the alternator's regulator does what it needs to do to match it.

I just bought a new starter cable from autozone. Its 18inches long and I hooked it up from the alternator to the top post of my optima battery. Works pretty good for charging I gained about half a volt across the board but voltage still drops to 12.5 at wide open.

Seems like that voltblaster would be a simple variable resistor that cuts voltage on that little red wire to the alternator per tps voltage.

I wish sometimes i was an electrical engineer instead of mechanical

 

I was talking with power master the other day. The since there is no wire hooking up to the S terminal the factory computer cant change the voltage. The red wire going to the alt is just to energize the regulator. Im thinking maybe this red wire is too small not allowing enough voltage to energize the reg under wot. My alt has an external regulator that can be run with out this red wire, im going to try this to see if anything changes. Also according to powermaster I can wire my alt to increase the voltage by the flip of a switch. The increase is 1.5 volts. Im going to wire this into a wot switch to increase voltage to 15.5 under wot and hopefully it only drops to 14.0 in the end.

This problem really pisses me off. Its getting to the point where I have to over do the fuel pump and injectors in order for it to supply enough fuel under 12.5 volts. 83# injectors should be enough to give me 1200hp, but with this problem I will max them out in a hurry. Also siemens doesnt make anything like a 96-110 so im stuck at 83#'ers. I have not heard very good things about MSD/delphi for boost app's. Im not sure about rochester though?

 

Get yourself a Volt-Blaster to fix your voltage problem under WOT. Even better yet get yourself a 100A Accuvolt and wire all your mission critical engine management components to it.
Delphi = RP = MSD = Holley injectors. The Delphi hi-z 50# injectors are lazy BUT GN owners have been using them for years running 10's with upwards of 70PSI+. Delphi low-z injectors do not have problems working at high pressures and are not lazy. Delphi's come in 95#. Siemens 83's (actually 86#) will not take you to 1200HP in a FI V8 with a 3 bar base pressure. Having 14V vs. 12.5V for your peak-hold low-z injectors will not make the difference between not having enough injector and having enough while keeping your DC under 80%.