I've posted problems with my voltage dropping under wide open throttle. I've tried everything to fix it with no luck. At this point all im conserned with is keeping voltage to my fuel pump. Kenny bell offers a boost-a-pump which increase voltage for a price of $250. I think thats rediculously priced like other performance parts. I dont need any special gadgets that turn it on and off. All im looking for is a way to keep 14 volts at the pump, to keep my injectors from getting over worked. Any ideas besides the boost-a-pump?

 

What's the battery/alternator voltage under WOT? If it's sufficient, then what you've got is a wiring problem, which can be fixed by running some larger wire from the battery straight back to the pump and controlling it via a high-quality relay (following safe fusing practices, of course).

If you're seeing unacceptable battery voltage, then you'll need some way to boost the pump voltage, such as the Kenny Bell module you speak of. DC-DC converters aren't cheap, but maybe something like the VTE15SC12 listed on this page would do the job (if your fuel pump requires more than 10 amps, and it may, then you'll need to look elsewhere).

Good luck!

 

I know there are things such as capacitors that are used for sound systems. Maybe you could check into that

Also, what kind of fuel pump do you have, and how many amps does it draw?

 

my friend Claude (95 sliver t/a) and I installed the wiring kit from
racetronix and I was impressed with the wiring harness they proved and the results.
pm him or send him a email and he can tell you the results … but it was well worth it ….. and did make an improvement …


Jim

 

I am the Friend Maldo was speaking about...He just sent me an email and asked me to respond.

Basically, I got the Wiring harness from Racetronixs and its a very nice piece. You can read more about it here:

http://www.racetronix.com/Racetronix..._Pump_Kit.html

I noticed an imediate difference in Fuel Pressure even at idle, My PSI went up 2 psi. I got the kit because Racetronix claimed that with the voltage increase is acutally good for another 20-25% increase in Fuel Volume. The wiring kit is a really nice piece and I can tell you that it works well too, I never had a problem with my set up (see sig) and saw an immediate difference when we installed it. Jim was there to verify the results too. All of my readings were done with the Electric FP guage I have mounted in my car.

I know that Lonnie Pavtis is an authorized dealer for Racetronix and can get you this stuff at a good price...You may want to give him a call or email, his email addy is lpavtis@westol.com.

Hope that helps,
Claude

 

like someone said..........make sure the wiring is of adequate size. the longer a wire is, the thicker it needs to be or voltage will drop.

if the problem still persists with adequate wiring........then the boostapump would probably be the next cheapest solution.

voltage drop is a HUGE concern for car audio competitors, so they have really powerful aftermarket alternators. that would cure all the voltage needs, but it is more expensive than the boostapump.

 

yes, that is one option but more expensive. the biggest problem is computer don't like excessive voltage. car audio is usually designed to take up to 16-18volts.

many competitors use 16 or 18 volt setups. turbo start for instance offers batteries that have both 12v and 16v post. but charging it becomes an issue. if it's a strip car then you could get away with turbo starts.

a high output alternator would also help out, but they cost alot of money, i paid $600 for my 180amp ohio generator. but they are also built better. one advantage of buying a HO. alt is you may have it customized. you could tell them what to set the regulator at or buy an adjustable regulator. then you could adjust the voltage inside the car.

but again, computers become an issue, just how much voltage will a computer take?

my people running boost opt for the msd fuel pump booster. it raises the voltage at high throttles to get the needed fuel, i understand they work awesome.

but the cheapest thing to do is rewire as mentioned above. look for a high stranded gauge wire, silver coated is best. solder all terminals and use a good relay.

good luck.
mike

 

Get a TPS based voltage booster like the Volt-Blaster.
If your FP is suffering so is your IGN system!
Get the Racetronix PnP harness for your FP.
If you still need more the Racetronix harness allows for PnP addition of the MSD or KB voltage booster.

 

All the main wiring consists of 1 gauge, this includes, the batt, alt, and the main power block. Then two grounds are made one to the chasis and one on the block(1 gauge). The battary is located mid way in the car. All fuel pump wiring is 10 gauge at about 10 ft long, which should be plenty. The alternator is a 200amp with adjustable voltage regulator. The alt has been sent back to be tested and nothing is wrong with it.
The problem I experience is very common with LT1 cars, everyone that I know has this problem. Without a data logger is hard to spot so most dont even notice there is a problem. Anyway under wot, votage will go from 14 down to 12.5ish volts. On the dyno my car makes peak power at about 6300rpm and peak trq at about 5K. I would expect my injector duty cyle to start dropping after peak tor/power but it keeps increasing. Thus the problem exists, less voltage to the pump=less flow and duty cycle goes up to compensate. I have thought about the big capcels that stereo buffs use. I know how they work but will they hold 10 seconds worth of power.....I will have to call on that?
The fuel pump im running is a weldon 2025, I believe the amprage is about 30.

 

Not to debate a proven point... get a Volt Blaster and be done with your problems. Buick owners have used these for over 12 years with great results.

How do you figure DC would decrease if your RPM is increasing. DC is not only a function of PW but RPM as well?
It all comes down to 'time to inject' which decreases as RPM increases.

 

where do I get this volt blaster?

 

Try Kevin Hayes @ Ramchargers.
Tell him Racetronix sent you.


http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/n...890&cat2=26891

 

I might be way off the beaten path, but I like to think that way sometimes. I had a simmilar problem about a year ago with my car. 95 Formula, 355, ect. I had a voltage drop problem, not only at WOT, but driving around, coming to a stop. It was more intermitant than what you describe tho. I found one day when my car wouldnt start, that the connector under the dash on the steering column for the ignition switch (controled by the key/tumbler), had the main power wire that had gotten hot, and wasnt making a good connection. I ordered the connector, re-spliced everything, and the problem was gone. It now charged at WOT, driving, everything. My good friend had the WOT charging problem, so we tried replacing that same connector that we found was also shorting out on his car, and he hasnt had a problem since. Hes since installed the Racetronix pump tho for the supercharger. Im not sure WHY that affected our cars the way it did, but it seemed to fix the problem. You never know.

Kyle

 

You never know...
Either way the Volt Blaster will benefit the car.

 

i agree, i've heard of several people with that exact problem. when you get the injetors pumping so much the fuel pump just aint' getting the voltage, get the booster, i'm sure it will solve your problems..

ps: caps are a marketing gimmick they don't help much for stereo's or voltage issues', alternators and batteries is where it's at.

if you have the same problem with the booster on it then it definitely is a wiring issue, but i'm sure you just need the booster.