still sounds a little unclear whether or not you know you cant use a piston that was designed for a different length rod. the piston HAS to be for the rod length you choose. you cannot mix&match.

 

Well after reading this I now know that, that is why I asked if it was a suggestion or a requirement, I take from your responce that it is a requirement. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

But is it the best setup? To use the "off the shelf" pistons and 5.7" rods or would anyone suggest a different combo that would be better/more reliable?

 

I would think if you're just going to stay Naturally aspirated (No nitrous, turbo or Supercharger) then the 5.7 rod combo would be plenty strong and more cost effective since you could keep your stock rods(They're strong enough for some guys to run 550 hp and in some cases more). I wouldn't spend money you don't have to on over engineered parts. If, however, you DO plan on utilizing a power adder now or later, then you might consider upgrading. If you keep the stock rods, just have them resized and use some ARP rod bolts. It's usually high RPM's that kills rods so if you plan on staying beneath 6,500 RPM, you should be fine with stockers. IMO of course.

 

This is what I was thinking about for my Turbo motor build up.

---- Rotating Assembly ----

Eagle 3.75" forged crank
Eagle 5.70" forged H-beam rods
JE/SRP .030" over -31cc dish forged pistons
JE Hellfire 1/16"x1/16"x3/16" Ring Set 030"
Federal Mogul Rod Bearing Set
Federal Mogul Main Bearing Set

---- Top End ----

AFR 220 or 227 with 2.1" intake valve
^ with matching ported LT4 intake manifold
Comp Cams "R" Series Hydraulic Roller Lifters
AFR Hydra Rev kit
Comp Cams Hi-Tech One Piece Chromemoly Pushrods
TT-230XH 230/230 duration, .598"/.598", 114lsa

---- MISC ----

Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain Set
LT1 Cylinder Head Swap Gasket Package
Fel Pro LT1 Bottom End Gasket Set
GM LT1/SBC Center Bolt Valve Cover Gasket
ARP Assembly Lubricant
GM Teflon Thread Sealer
ARP LT1/SBC Head Stud Kit 12 point w/nuts


But like I said before, after reading the posts above, I was wondering if I should rethink my bottom end. There is no way I was planning on running the stock rods. Depending on price I am even thinking about running the Callies "Dragonslayer" crank and Callies Pro I-Beam rods because it is all rated for more power.

I still have not figured out the turbo or turbo's I want to run but I will do that in the FI section, but I do know I am shooting for about 650 with the setup and putting Nitrous on top of that, while kepping drivablility, that is why I am going forged everything and LOW compression. I am thinking with the heads at 65cc's I should be at about 8.3:1 CR give or take a little, I still haven't done those calcs.
But that should be plent to hold the 10#+ of boost I was planning on throwing at it and 150 shot of N2O. Of course the exact #'s will come with tuning and track testing it.

 

woot!! dayem... that's some machinery you're defining there. Holy cow.... Is this gonna be a street car? If so, tell me. I'm gonna invest in your favorite tire company

 

Yeah I haven't thought that far ahead, but I will get stock in them before hand also!

I know that this is going to be tough, and it will mean replacing the trans and rear also, but yes I wanted to be able to run it on the street, of course not a daily driver or anything like that.

 

One thing to consider is going with the JE line of pistons as opposed to the JE/SRP. The JE's in this case would be a 2618 alloy which should be a bit stronger.

 

Chris,

Thanks, that is good to know!

 

If I was building my 396 over again, I would have gone with a 5.85" rod also. It would have increased compression height, moving the wrist pin out of the oil control ring, and made it easier to switch over to a lower compression piston if I changed my mind on running naturally aspirated. Pistons are a lot cheaper to replace than heads, especially a set of well-ported 215cc raised runners with a matching Hogan's intake.

 

i would also ask for some advice on that came...
i dont know what is best but i know that one isnt.

 

Why do you say that?
It is a turbo cam, it has a lot of duration, and probably a little too much for the street, but it is a turbo cam.

 

Wanted to run nitrous on my 383, up to 175-200 hp.
Should I still use 5.7'' rods?

 

Sure thing. Nitrous works well with anything.
Just make sure your kit is delivering the right amount of fuel for the N2O you're delivering and that your bottle pressure is like 900 to 1000 psi(safest while being powerful).

 

like i said i dont know for sure but it just seems that everyone(almost)is running reverse split cams for turbo.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=turbo+cam

do a search on them and youll find some good info...

 

Marshall,

Thanks for the advice I will definitly consult everyone including the sales tech reps before ordering it, but for that list it is pretty much an extreme shopping list including the top, but not must
expensive parts.

I mainly put it together to show the wife what I was planning on doing/spending.

I just put that cam on the list because it was a the top of combination motorsports turbo cam selection page. I wish I knew what I would need just by looking at the numbers like a lot of people here.

But I first need to get the list of things needed approved by the wife then research what is needed and hope to find it cheeper if I could.

I will get everything speced out, with help from as many people as possible, later when I am ready for the build. That is why I am asking these questions both to learn more and to get advice as to what will work the best. I will take everyones suggestions and combos into consideration when I do the final design of this setup.