will a 400 sbc bolt right into the 93-97? my buddy is giving me a good deal on his motor, so i just wanna see how much work it is going to be.

 

is it going to be carbed? street engine?

it will take a little work...mounts,trimming the cowl, not too hard to do

 

its going to be carbed. race only engine.

what need to be done to the mounts?

 

Mounts and bell housing should be the same. You will probably have to get the 400 flex plate.

The big thing is cooling,rad and hoses. Trimming the cowl will probably have to happen.Cowl hood too.

 

Don't forget the new fuel pump, fuel lines, and hood (if you want to run a tall intake runner, or atleast a ram-air hood to get some cool air to the air filter.

Not a cheap conversion, but if you get a lot of the stuf from the 400 you should be in for some fun wrenching.

 

And the gauges too... the LT1 gauges (except for coolant temp) is all run from the PCM... without it you need to wire those straight to the gauge cluster and the stock one is 0-5v I belive... aftermarket 0-12v gauges may be nessesary.

Obviously you don't need to worry about traction control if it's race-only.

Headers will be interesting... I don't know why stock one's wouldn't fit...but you'll definitely want 1 3/4" long tubes.

 

it is going to be a full blown race car. not keeping the tranny, rear end, or any of the electronic stuff other then the power windows. i am getting a 4" cowl hood, so that shouldnt be a problem. also getting a new fuel tank with new fuel pump and lines. nothing will be stock other then the body itself. picked the car up for 1500 bucks, and im sure i will get that back when i sell the motor/trans and rear end. so its basiclly a freebie


the engine took a 3800lb car into the 10.80's, so it should be a fun motor

 

Only the tach and the speedo are run off the PCM. The fuel level, coolant temp, battery voltage and oil pressure are wired directly from the sensing point to the gauges.

 

Mounts will not work,you will need to fabricate new ones or do what I did and install a BMR tubular subframe with sbc mounts already to go.I am using 1 3/4 hookers that I ported a little at the flange for my large port heads although im going up to hedman husler 1 7/8 when I can scrape up 800 bucks.

 

For what you want to do I would go with a motor plate and mide plate. They make life a whole lot easier.

 

That would work but for a race car your still dealing with the stock heavy subframe.Im using solid mounts on my BMR and its killing two birds with one stone

 

Do you run a midplate? I am considering running at least that with motor mounts. Everyone tells me it takes alot of stess off the block.....and I need to decide if I want to do it quickly...

 

Im not but im using an aftermarket block so im not overly concerned right now.Its good peice of mind to run one and I might in the future when I up the spray,im only hitting it with a 175 but its good for 400.