Which one is better to get in a WP block if you were building a 427 sbc? Just trying to check out som prices of different things while i'm deciding what to do. Also would it be better to go with a WP or a dart block..any advantages to either?

 

350=less friction=less heat.

 

any opinion on the dart or WP block? thanks for the help

 

No,it's whatever one fits the app best.The 'Little M" is a good one.
If I were going to build a customer a 427,I would go with the biggest bore(4.155) and shortest rod and shortest stroke I could to make it a 427.The largest heads I could afford and the best intake.Cam would depend on the head selection,and compression=DCR.

 

What you trying to do here? Depends on the power level, stroke and rod journal in my choice of 327/350/400 mains.

Bret

 

heres what i thought the common way to make the 427 was: 4.125" bore with the 4" stroke on a sbc 6" rod. I already have some h beams w/ the arp l19 bolts that are 6" long so i was planning on using them with a 4" stroke crank and then picking up some pistons with the correct pin height, compression, etc. I plan on bolting on some sb2.2 heads that have been ported and are flowing in the the 430 cfm...intake will either be the spider intake or a sheet metal..not sure yet. Also planned on running the iron block since saving a minimal amount of weight didn't really justify me purchasing an alum block. Let me know what you'll think about this...

 

I like GM blocks....
Second choice would be Dart
World products would be last.

I personally like using a long rod....we have done many back to back dyno comparisons/R&D with our GTA and road race programs, they have all shown that the long rod motors make a flatter-broader torque curve.

 

The dyno test I have done,there is NOT a nickle's worth of difference in a 5.7 to a 6.0 in. rod.In fact ya may loose some HP&TQ with a 6.125"rod and those heads.

Ya don't NEED all the brain damage that comes with an aluminum block.It's completely different when ya are having the machine work done and with the assembly. There are ALL kind's of little TRICKS to do to it.

 

How much are the bowtie blocks running? Would it be better to run the raised cam location in the block or just stick with the stock location?

 

Don't know price but they are spendy.
I would go with the raised cam to clear your crank. There will be special timing chain and distributor.

 

bowtie blcoks already come machined like the darts? The blocks may be a little spendy but by the time you get all your machine work done the right way, you might as well start with the better block

 

BTW a L19 bolt head needs clearancing on a 355, let alone what happens on a 427, that's going to be scary.

BTW Rod Length is a pretty small thing to look at, but it does have uses in situations where you want to grow or shrink a head port in a motor.

Bret

 

i have already clearanced the l19s in a 383 and know what it takes. in the WP block, WP told me the bolts will clear fine with the 4" stroke but they may have just said that. What is your opinion on the raised cam and which block to go with bret??

 

I would do the raised cam even though it costs more for lots of reasons.

Bret

 

dart block work out then?? Can you get the dart block with the bores not finished so that you can hone them to your specs...all the ones i see through summit have finished bores. With the raised cam, you have to run the diff. timing chain set up and do you run a shorter pushrod to compensate for the cam being higher? How much more is the raised cam set up going to run then a normal cam set up? thanks bret and everyone else