I was just wondering how much tq/hp can be expected from a 302 with...that four barrel throttle body and multi point FI. You guys know what I'm talking about? It's like a carburated motor, but it's got MPFI?! Ok, ya. That, LT headers, and long chambered mufflers. Also, possibly all aluminum internals. iron block, aluminum heads/intake. What do you guys think?

 

what i think is you need to be A LOT more specific here which heads which cam which intake etc etc etc. i mean give me 10k rpms to work with along with a maybe 30 second avg. run time and you get quite a lot of hp. but nobody is going to answer you unless you tell us more what you're asking for. and as far as i know there is no aluminum crank so i would assume you mean rods and pistons, so i take it this isnt a street motor if its running aluminum rods?

 

Sorry about that bro, I was tired and trying to get this out before I hoped into bed. as far as heads and what not...I GUESS, an edelbrock torker II...edel performer heads, about a 230 or 240 cam. 1000 or 500 cfm TB. It's a street motor, that I wanna push pretty high, like maybe 7k or 7.5k rpms? Higher if that means numbers that are more suitable. All N/A, no juice.

Aluminum rods and pistons ya. Why wouldn't aluminum rods be good for street use? I'd get an aluminum crank if it would, once again, put my numbers up good enough. Need anymore info???

 

What are you starting with... Gen 1 SBC, LT1 or LS1? Why did you pick a "302"..... 7.5K is doable with a much larger displacement. I would think a 302 would have as its goal more the 8K. What kind of car is it going into? How heavy?

Aluminum crank? Either that's a bit of sarcasm, or there's been some major technology breakthroughs that I've missed.

 

well skip the torker II and go for a victor junior or a super victor. and you can probably just go with a good 355 rather than a 302. you'll just have more tq all over and still be able to spin that high. also skip the aluminum rods thats not really a street piece and theres no reason to use them on the street with some of the forged steel parts on the market today. i'd recomment a good set of je pistons since they apear to be on the lighter end of the scale as far as i've seen. any forged steel crank would probably be good, only reason i say that is i dont trust cast stuff up there its just a personal preference. i'd also look at some ported brodix t1 for heads rather than the edelbrocks i assume you're looking to make serious power, and for a 355 if you had 300cfm or so you could get close to 600hp out of it. you might also look into solid roller cams but you'll end up changing the valve springs every 15k or so ($300 a pop) and relashing the vavles when you change the oil. i'd recommend some hefty compression too to keep it responsive and keep the dcr up. this combo with a solid roller might be pushing the edge of what people call streetable, but then street engines dont usually turn 7500 or 8k rpm.

 

Well, I wanted to do a 302 cause the old skool Z's came with em. Its going in a 3rd gen camaro...it'll be lightened a bit, prolly around 3200-3150 or so. I was thinking about a 355, but then again the orginal Z's came with a 302, and if I had a hi-revvin one, that'd be pretty cool. The block would probably just be the one from the 3rd gen Camaro, just with a little extra work...unless I can get a good block cheap. You know how college budgets are.

Hehe, we'll say sarcasm for the crank

 

yeah the original z's came with a dz302. funny thing about cid though you cant tell by looking and as has been said many times nothing makes hp like cubes.

 

Wait until you hear the sound that 302 makes in the upper rpm's. It is a sweet high pitched sound. Very different that a 350.

Stay away from aluminum rods for street use. Titanium is a better choice if you have the dough.

Aluminum has a much shorter fatigue life than steel. This means you’ll have to measure for stretch and if you find a problem, replace suspect rods to stay ahead of possible catastrophic failure.

There is a different expansion rate between alum and steel. Alum rods should be warmed up before use, not to rev the motor cold because you could spin a bearing.

Laast issue is just physical size of the alum rods. You have to check all clearances thouroghtly.

 

Since this must be your first project you should try doing some research first. Get a high performance engine building book and read up on this stuff a little so you can have a better idea of what your goal is and what kind of engine you need to build to get there.

The only reason the old z's came with 302's was to qualify for their Trans Am class. They just dont make much power unless you turn some ungodly rpm's and then they turn out costing way more to build to get the same amount of power out of them that you could get with a nice 383 or 396 stroker. Another thing is that if you build it to turn that high rpm bull**** it will be really weak on the bottom end and you will have to run some really low gears to get the car moving.

Heres an example.
An 8000 rpm power peak on a 302 with 280cfm heads and a good tune on street gas will make maybe 475 hp.

A 396 stroker with the same heads turning about 6500 on pump gas could make more like 515 hp with way better drivability and low end power while still being able to run a nice gear like a 3.55 or so.

 

I strongly agree...especially the part about "Since this must be your first project you should try doing some research first."