Does anyone have any info on a 16v conversion on a 4th gen Z?

What if any components are needed besides the new alternator and battery ?

If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated ! Thanks !

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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

 

You keep asking this question on different forums, and people keep telling you there are better ways to solve your system charging problems than to attempt to convert the entire electrical system to 16V operation. There are tens of thousands of stock and very high performance vehicles that run just fine with 12V systems. Yes, there can be benefits in running the fuel pump or ignition system at higher voltage, but to convert the entire electrical system in a relatively stock vehicle is of questionable value, and may even have negative impact on things like the PCM, lighting system and audio system.

You have been told several times to have your alternator and battery load tested to determine where the problem is with your system.... have you done that yet?

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Fred
94 Formula A3: 381/TH400/N2O
Detailed Mod's List
11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year

 

Damn fred,
U usually seemed like a pretty cool guy, but anyways, it is a seperate question from the fact that my battery and/or alternator may be messed up.

Why is it a seperate issue ? Because this is the subject of wether or not to convert to a 16v battery and alternator with a potentimeter to set my voltage higher.

If I am ending up replacing my battery, which im pretty certain now is part of the problem, I would like to know if I am gonna end up getting a 16V one.

I am not talking about a 3-post setup, charging a 16V battery off of a stock alternator, but a complete swap of BOTH.

The lack of answers tell me not only do some people not think it is a benefit, but MOSTLY that most people have no idea or input. Basically, I will end up doing more research on it, and how it might impact the ignition/wires/lighting etc... I am 90 % certain that lighting will be positively affected similar to high output mode..

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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

 

Not sure why it makes me "uncool" in your eyes because I am doing my job as a moderator. As stated in the original post, appears your question was basically incomplete..... you didn't give all the facts. I assumed it was just another version of the question you have asked on other forums, and which I along with many other people personally took time to answer, only to find you blew off our answers.

Fred

 

Modern Muscle car used to make a Volt Blaster(?) that would bump up your voltage during WOT. It seemes to work good for a few people I know. Just an option that seems more reasonable...

-Geo

 

I will agree with Fred on this.

While I agree its possible I doubt if its worth the problems. Turbo start is the only company that I know of that deals in a system. I do not know if their alternator will bolt on your car. You will need a twin positive post (12 and 16 volt) battery. The PCM, gages, sensors etc will be negatively effected if you run them on 16 volts. The twin positive post battery will alow you to run the starter and what ever else you want to run on 16 volts. I know the Tilton starters will handle 16 volts. I do not know if the factory GM starter will take it for long, maybe, maybe not.

If you have relocated your battery (?) the cable may not be large enough. I'm using 00 welding cable.

Hope this helps your decision.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that the system voltage on a "16V" battery/alternator/regulator is going to be well above 16V when the system is recharging the battery after a hard start. Just as a 12V system might see 16V for 15 minutes immediately following startup, the 16V system is going to operate near 20V at times. Driving accessories, computer, injectors, lighting, audio systems, etc more than 50% in excess of its rated voltage can't be good for it.

Fred

 

Fred, I agree that is why the voltage sensative stuff needs to be attached to the 12 volt terminal on the 16 volt battery. Connect the starter to the 16 volt terminal.
My big question is will the 16 volt alternator bolt on the stock alternator brackets. The next thing is the charging system wiring. I "think" the 16 volt alternator is a one wire. You will not be able to use the stock wiring.

 

i think it would all work like normal on the 12v section of the battery, (accessories,stereo,ect)
im guessing the 16/12v battery is a (11?) cell battery with an extra post tapped into the 8th cell so there is 12v there. u will need a 16v alternator and that will go to the 16v post on the battery, as will the starter feed cable. the rest of the car's electronics can just go to that 12v post, same as any battery.
when running, the alternator will charge the whole battery, but the 12v post will still be a typical 12v or so... sorta like a voltage divider.
is it worth all this trouble/money? no.
jeremy

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'93 z28 m6 (Purple Pearl Metallic)
stock shortblock, 230/236 cam, mildly ported heads, hooker longtubes, csi waterpump, all the usual bolton stuff.....
7.98 @ 88.7mph 1.84 60' (1/8mi)

 

To update this post, I did go out and get a new battery, 12V for now. I appreciate all your answers on this, I am having a REALLY difficult time getting any response from techs on this.

Yes, the system I am looking at is a 16V battery and 16V alternator. Basically high output NHRA style.

Freds post above, talking about running the high voltage output during a hard start / cold start... is EXACTLY what I am after... the reason behind this is unfortunately, basically cosmetic:

- my car RUNS BETTER during that mode
- LIGHTING LOOKS ALOT BETTER
- Stereo hits alot harder

IF ANYONE KNOWS if it is possible to PUT my car in that high output mode, and keep it there with tunercat, or if anyone knows a work-around that will let me do this and NOT DAMAGE anything... PLEASE let me know. I know that almost anything that can be imagined can be done to a car, so I know this is possible.
I am not worried about things such as: Shorter bulb life, shorter spark plug life, or things such as that...
ALL I am after is keeping that alternator at high output mode to keep me at or around a true 16V constant !! Thanks guys ! !

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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

 

Fred, this system comes with a potentiometer(sp) that lets me set the running voltage for the ACC to whatever I want it to be.. so it may very well be capable of 20V+ at the alternator or battery, but I would set it to maybe around 16. Because of this complications is why I posted in here. Thanks for not closing this post, I know it may not be the most advanced thing in the world, but so far opinions have been helpful.



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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

 

First of all!
Nothing in the car will be damaged by the 16V system.
Turbostart sells the batteries, but many companies sell an alt. for 16Volts.

I run a single 16V battery and it has never had a charging load of over 18.5 volts from the alt.
Gauges, lights and pcm's can handle near and maybe even over 22volts.

Tons of racers run even dual 16V batteries with many different brands of PCM, so quit trying to rationalize your negativity in that way.

Production cars pretty soon will be coming out with even 48 volt systems in the future. I even think Mercedes has one this year or coming out next year.

The only thing that might need to be modified is the alt. brackets on on LT1's and so on (mine is the older design GM Delco size and is mounted low on the drivers side).

Don't dis what you don't know.

Dave Brown
P.S. I even made 8 passes down the 1/8 mile last year without even having an alt. or a charge, just using one bat.! I now have the alt.
http://strokedta.vettextc.net/track/Dave-1.jpg

http://strokedta.vettextc.net/track/Dave-3.jpg


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If a little's good,
More is better,
And too much is just right!!!

 

Thanks Dave, this is relieving to know.

Does your setup let you adjust the voltage level for car vs. engine ? ?

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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

 

That's what I'm trying to say.
You DON'T NEED to lower the voltage.
It's better for everything to have higher voltage.
So...No I can't adjust it.

Dave

------------------
If a little's good,
More is better,
And too much is just right!!!

 

Cool !

Thanks man, the system I am looking at comes with the voltage adjustment that allows me to change the set point of the voltage system while running.

The set point is the level that the unit sees as the goal, the perfect level of the electrical system. You adjust it by turning a small potentiometer on the back of the alternator to adjust the set point. The range is 13.5V - 18.5V, allowing one alternator to be used with 12V and 16V batteries - and anything in between....

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~ Black 95 Z A4 Convert~
P t ' s w e b p a g e
Custom PCM, ASR PCM mod, 1st gear mod, short shifter, 3" CUTOUT, TB Bypass, ported/polished MAF, Vortech/K&N CAI, LT4KM, JET IAT, BMR STB, BMR SB, BMR SFC's, TPIS Fuel Pump (SS HOOD, Ground-Control/Eibach ERS, 160 stat, Ignition Booster waiting to be installed !)

[This message has been edited by pu12en12g (edited June 24, 2002).]