91 RS, 383, 9.7:1, 238 intake/248 exhaust, Holley 750, 150 shot, turbo 400, eagle crank and Kieth Black hyper pistons, 3.73 gear.

I have not dynoed this new engine, bbut any guidence on shift points and what should my redline be set at? The engine pulls hard all the way through 6000rpm. I have not pushed it past 6500, or should I. Car ran 12.49 @107 when shifting at 5500 spraying 150 shot.

Also have a Summit round 360 degree air cleaner. Was thinking of putting a Spectre performance dual cold air induction on it and positioning the filters forward of the engine on both sides. Do you think I will notice any improvement in HP? It will cost me $350 to do it.

This is something like I want to do. Does it really add that much HP?

Any advice??
Dave

 

What kind of heads are You running? Your car should be capable of mid 12's at the worst without the nitrous. You should be looking at other issues besides Your air intake setup. What altitude are You running at and how is Your 60 foot? Something isn't right here... A little more detail on Your setup would help us figure out what really needs to be looked at.

 

Red line is a function of a lot of things such as valve springs, cam profile, intake configuration, cam advance, valvetrain mass, header choice, final drive gear, etcetera.

It's hard to say what red line should be. The way to find out is on the dyno: Red line is at the point where power drops off, but before the valvetrain goes out of control.

With a 238/248 cam, assuming you have a good quality valvetrain that can handle the speed, I would think redline will fall in the 6500 RPM range; maybe higher if this is a solid lifter cam profile.

As a point of reference, my 10.6:1 385 has eight degrees less duration in the cam profile, and it runs to 6300 RPM before power begins to drop off. It also traps 113 MPH in the quarter-mile with no nitrous.

I cannot say for sure if the CAI will make that much power for $350 add-on. Before purchasing, I'd suggest you remove your air filter, hook up cheap aluminum dryer vent hose, and simulate the design to see if there's any real difference in performance. I can say that cold air does make a difference in terms of heat: I made one once for my carbuerated engine: Two different designs, actually. It made a big difference in terms of heat soak as the carb quit bogging after it was hot. Inlet temperatures plunged from 220 degrees to 165 degrees on a thermocouple that I placed in the throat of the carb. I did this in 1997, so the details beyond that are fuzzy. I dont think I saw much of a change in the E/T though.