What is the FelPro RACE gasket kit? Where can I find it? I have a carb, and I have the gaskets needed for the carb, so minus that 30 bucks. I am having the local exhaust shop make my car an exahust.. from the cat-back, plus Y-Pipe, about $250 or less (according to Midas).
I couldn't reuse the rod-bolts?
I am doing the honing myself. Do cam bearings come w/ the new cam? I am not ding any piston balancing, rod balancing, crank balanc/journal polishing, i dont think.

 

Check the Summit catalog for the Felpro R.A.C.E. kit, which comes with valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, oil pan seal, fuel pump gasket, timing chain cover gasket, harmonic balancer crankshaft gasket, distributor gasket, waterpump gasket, etcetera.

Yes, you can re-use your rod bolts. However, I thought the object of your rebuild was to upgrade the performance potential. Your standard rod bolts will be fine so long as you dont plan of revving the engine to the moon or past 6000 RPM, whichever comes first.

If you are doing a stock rebuild, and plan on honing the cylinders yourself, you might want to consider buying yourself a "master rebuild kit" from P.A.W. which comes with all piston rings, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, cam, lifters, and other stuff that you need to redo the engine. http://www.pawinc.com/ It might be the least expensive way for you to get your engine rebuilt. However, you be careful when you measure those cylinder walls: Make two diameter measurements at the top, two in the middle, and two at the bottom so that you can determine the total eccentricity and taper of each cylinder. If it varies by much more than .004 inches, you'll want to really consider getting yourself some new pistons and a rebore.

I think you are only going to get away with rings and a hone if your engine is currently NOT burning oil.

 

I would be VERY wary of not having that block machined with 197k on it. I know it will cost more, but spending the money to rebuild could be fruitless if you get it all back together and it's not right.

Get new pistons (even cheap ones) get the rods and crank checked, get the block machined and cleaned, buy a full engine rebuild bolt set from ARP (wouldn't trust bolts with 197k on them), pick up a full rebuild gasket set from FelPro.

Your plan would prolly be ok if this was a 100k or 120k mile freshening.....but this motor is prolly gonna need more work than that.

- Justin

 

Thing is.. the engine if fine w/ out smoke for the most part. If i am at a stop light, or shifting, OCCASIONALY it will smoke. According to my dad.. after about 3 days of constant running, the smoke will be UNBEARABLE, and very illegal. Do you think that is rings or valve-seals?
If anything.. I should get the "Deluxe engine rebuild kit", not the "duluxe master rebuild kit". I dont need pistons and a cam, or even the lifters for that matter. IMOP, the $323 is NOT worth it for the Duluxe master rebuild kit. BUT.. the $148 for the Duluxe engine rebuild kit IS worth it. It has the same stuff, but not the lifters, cam, and pistons. Why should I consider a rebore and new pistons if it varies by more than .004?
What does "machining" the block do? How much would the bolts from ARP go for?

 

With cylinder taper and eccentricity, your new rings wont seal properly. You'll have piston slap and piston chatter, and oil control ring flutter. In other words, your new engine will consume oil and may be noiser in the process.

The ARP bolts save you from fastener failure if you plan on rodding the engine. It's usually the leading cause of engine breakages at the track. The old bolts will be fine for ordinary passenger car duty, but if you want to drive with excitement, the ARP fasteners will offer you great insurance.

 

How much will the ARP's go for, and from where?

 

From Jeg's:

ARP Engine Kit, SBC:

Chrome Moly Black Oxide Hex Head / 070-534-9801 / $65.99

Stainless Steel Hex Head / 070-534-9601 / $77.99

- Justin

 

Ok, thanx Justin But Justin.. what do you think of my post made about the car smoking?

 

I don't know if there is a way to tell whether oil is burning from used up rings or valve seals, other than the valve seals usually account for the "startup puff" due to small amounts of oil dripping through the worn valve seals and onto the top of the piston.

With almost 200k miles the cylinder walls will be fairly well worn, and just doing a quick cleanup by hand prolly won't help. If you use the same pistons and just throw new rings on them, I will just about guarantee that the new rings won't seal properly. I'm not saying that you need to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars in machine work, but if I was in your place, I would buy an average set of pistons, and have the block bored out just enough to clean up and straighten the walls.

- Justin

 

Could I bore the cylanders out myself? How much, and from where, can I find an average set of pistons?

 

Not unless you have a machine shop in your garage.....

Just look around for 305 pistons in Summit and Jegs....don't have time to search for them at work....

- Justin

 

Why would I need a machine shop? What tools are used? I will find some cheap pistons.. and then post them here and ask if they are any good.

 

You cannot make a straight cylinder wall on a drill press. The process involves boring out the cylinder on a large boring press that fastens the engine block into the bottom og the jig, then plunges the boring bar into the cylinder. The whole assembly must be rigid or you'll have a cloverleaf shaped cylinder.

I HIGHLY suggest you get in contact with your local NAPA store and ask them about getting the cylinder walls inspected after you tear it down, then go with their opinion.

 

I am doing this entire job w/ a GOOD friend.. a 56-year-old OldSkool hotrodder that knows his shiz. I will ask him to look over and check out the cylander walls w/ special care.