3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

What do i need to do to go to a non CC carb & dist?

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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #16  
byrons1502's Avatar
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From: northern indiana
you never stated what intake you had. if a carb will bolt to it i would use it. it would remove some of the useless stuff on the intake and look better also. i would recommend a edelbrock 600 electric choke if you do some occasional street races, a edelbrock 500 if you want gas mileage, a holley street avenger 600 or 650 if you might take it to the track someday.

beware of the cheap distributers(proform and cheap ebay parts). most of the advance is way to much and are hard to curve correctly. gm makes a nice new one or you can buy the parts from jacobs and build it yourself. try to start at 10 initial with 32-36 degrees total with it all in at 2500 rpm. very good base to start with

you can leave the computer in there but pin out the dash lt for the check engine soon. done this swap over 30 times.

go to napa and check out the sensor book and pick out the cooling fan switch. thay are a lot cheaper and they also have low temp ones. remember to get a lower t-stat also.
Old Dec 22, 2006 | 09:57 AM
  #17  
BLACK Z !'s Avatar
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From: JEFF,NY
I have ajet 180 fan switch now, that works with my cp set up, can I just leave it in there and leave teh cecm hooked to it?will it still work or do i need to re wire it?
any ideas on the size of the pipe plugs I would need?
are there 2 sensors in the t stat houseing?(my car is put away inmy garage and it is all covered up or i could answer teh last my self)
Can i leave the carcoal canister hooked up? I prbably will leave teh knock sensor in the block.
I don't want to remove alot at first just in case I want to go back to the cc set up so there should be no harm done by leave ing that stuff hooked up besides a ses light right?
Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:18 PM
  #18  
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From: Michigan
Not sure about the fan stuff mine is engine driven

Easiest thing to do for the plugs would be to pull the sensors and measure, or take them into the store

The thermostat housing DOES have 2 sensors in it (at least on mine it did). One was the temp. sensor the other was for the A.I.R. system I think. this might be easier to just replace with a new gooseneck, no holes and they're usually chrome and pretty.

The charcoal canister can still be used, but I personally yanked mine... although part of that was that the lines were all halfway chopped anyway.

I also left the knock sensor in the block, it's hidden so I don't really care.

No harm came to me of not using the ECM. Engines ran before computers were slapped on them right?

I pulled my dash apart and pulled out the bulb for the SES.
Old Dec 24, 2006 | 02:09 PM
  #19  
BLACK Z !'s Avatar
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From: JEFF,NY
Do they sell a plug for the o2 sensor? should I leave the cc set up?

Well I can get a new holley 670 street avenger for $200, about 8 years ago I had picked a motor from summit when they used to build and sell there own, that had a 650 double pumper and it worked great, that motor had all of the emmission stuff removed, I sold that motor and stuck the 305 back in and then this motor that I have in there now. I had to figure out where all the vac and wires went again, so this time i just want to tuck the stuff out of the way.And the fan did run still work. That summit motor ran great I have no idea why I sold it but I did.

I am replacing this stuff do to a after fire though the exhaust that I have chased for years and spent a fortune I have tracked it down to these to areas, I disconnected the 4 wire conector that you use to set teh timeing and drove it and it went away. I have tried diffrent Q jets, stock rebuilds jet perf rebuilds and all where adjusted correctly and nothing helped, i played witht he timeing and still nothing. So i figrued I will go this way.
Old Dec 24, 2006 | 08:52 PM
  #20  
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From: northern indiana
they sell o2 plugs aftermarket. i use innovates plugs, if you have the four wire dist you will need a new one. that is esc or computer controlled. it should have limited timing and gave you all kinds of heck. get a new dist. use the holley, plug some lines, your fan will work like it is(the computer does nothing)

jacobs sells dist set to your engines specs and they work great(used one on a 9000 rpm ford with an hei conversion)
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #21  
BLACK Z !'s Avatar
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Any other input?
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:38 PM
  #22  
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what else do you need to know?
Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:24 AM
  #23  
BLACK Z !'s Avatar
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Sometimes some one new will come long and post somthing others forgot,I think I know what to do though.
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BLACK Z !
I have ajet 180 fan switch now, that works with my cp set up, can I just leave it in there and leave teh cecm hooked to it?will it still work or do i need to re wire it?
...I don't want to remove alot at first just in case I want to go back to the cc set up so there should be no harm done by leave ing that stuff hooked up besides a ses light right?
FAN
If you only have one fan basically the ECM, and the Fan switch are connected in parallel, the one with the lowest turn-on temp will always override the other (can act as backup if the other fails, but not if the either fails to turn off,) in this case, the Jet seems to have priority.
A manual switch is fine, but don't use it to connect the fan to a "Hot at all times" source, if you do, you may find yourself with a dead battery, usually at the wrong place and time so, be prepared; carry a set of jumper cables.
A manual switch tied to the F-terminal/ECM dark green wire of the Fan relay and ground will power the relay only when the ignition is on whether the ECM is connected, or not.
FYI: Stock electric fans are not designed for full time service.
ECM
The SES light has one side connect to 12v (gauge fuse) the other side is connected to ground by the ECM, if the ECM is completely disconnected, the SES light will never turn on.
Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:03 AM
  #25  
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
I did that swap on my 86 Trans Am back in 2000.
I used a Performer RPM 7101 Intake manifold and a 1406 Carb, and a vacuum advance distributor. cost me about $300 and another $100 or so for the air cleaner, filter and valve covers.




a year later I converted to EFI since it looked a lot more modern than a carb setup.
Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #26  
BLACK Z !'s Avatar
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From: JEFF,NY
ZEPHER, any tips? It looks clean under there, what motor is that, and did you notice a diffrence between the stock carb, and the edelbrock set up? what about teh fi set up? thanks
Old Jan 15, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #27  
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
That motor is the stock 165hp 305 LG4 quadrajet motor with just the Edelbrock stuff.
My Q-jet was on it's way out but ran "ok" but when the M/C solenoid went out on it I decided on going non-CC carb. Putting the Edelbrock setup made the car much quicker, with 113K miles on the motor it was running 14.9@92mph.

the fi setup is the same block, I just changed the heads and cam and put the TPI setup on it. Car sounded really mean and was running 14.1@99mph in limp home mode. My software was burning bum chips and I didn't figure it out until the motor spun a bearing.
here is a vid of the car with the carb setup, I was racing my brother in his 96 Camaro,
http://www.transamws6.com/video/manny_vs_lino.wmv

and a vid of the fi setup a few days after I finished the swap,
http://www.transamws6.com/video/ZepherWS6.mpg
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