I was wondering what do I need to do to swap out my CC QJET and DIST for a non CC carb and dist? what parts do i need? what other stuff do i have to change because of this? Do I have to remove all of the emission stuff? sensor egr vavle and that kind of stuff. Could I leave teh cp hooked up? if I left teh other sensors hooked up would it affected teh way My car ran I guess the check engine light would be on (at alter date I may remove teh other sensors but at first i would like to leave it on so i could swap the cc stuff back on if need be)What are teh pros and cons of this swap? all info would be great.

Any suggestions on carb a dist brand and model to swap in? I was thinking about either aholley 670 street avenger or a edelbrock carb in the 600 to 650 range.
msd, malloy or a accel dist vac controlled

thanks

P.S the car is a86 Z28 with a GM 350 replacment motor,headers cat back exhaust msd 6al perfromer intake and a few other little things.

 

What do you need? Heh.. nothing! I did the same thing on my '85. Just take off the q-jet carb/manifold, put on a nice Performer RPM intake/carb, get an Accel Vacuum Advance distributor, and replace. Only thing you will have to do is run a vacuum hose from the carb. to the distributor for the timing advance. It's a cake walk. And the responsiveness is amazing. Go w/ a 650 though. I had a 600 for my 305, and for anything bigger than a 305 I would go 650
Bid on this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edelb...58113888QQrdZ1
and
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...16799_-1_10679
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edelb...spagenameZWDVW
Now buy these parts, put them in, and feel the difference!

Your CEL will be on.. you will PROBABLY notice a decrease in gas mileage swapping carb's; the q-jet is an amazing carb when running properly. As for pro's, the new setup i pointed you to will give you much more crisp throttle response; the secondaries will give you more of a jolt, the fuel excelerator (can't remember the damn name..) will squirt more fuel when the secondaries kick in, etc.

 

Thirdgen.org is a lot of help. Discussed many times over there. goodluck!

 

there is no gain by doing this swap if your carb is working fine. the carb works like a stock q-jet only it uses an o2 to deliver proper a/f ratios. plus the computer controls spark knock by adjusting the timing 15 degrees at first and brings it back quickly. i had a 85 monte ss with a 305 that i tuned to get 35mpg on highway and run 15.65's. there are some tricks to it but the carbs are great. how cool is it to open the hood after winning a race and seeing the look on thier face when they see the carb. all the standard q-jet mods apply. check out the new q-jet book(not the 1973 version)

 

Like I said, q-jets are GREAT when tuned properly. Unfortunatly, the stock q-jet manifolds suck.

 

I already have a performer intake, should the holley or edelbrock carbs bolt right to it? are they the same pattern as the q jet? If I need to are the spacer paltes a good way to go? I would hate to buy a new intake.

 

Looking at where the carb bolts to if it has 2 big holes and 2 small holes you need a new intake.

 

Yes your Performer will bolt right up to a new Edelbrock or Holley. YES get a TB-spacer (it may only give small gains.. but a gain is a gain.) And if possible, get the Performer RPM that I linked you to. It's cheap as f*ck, and will give you a lot more power over the regular Performer

EDIT: And NO.. q-jet bolt patterns are NOT the same as a Holley or Edelbrock bolt-pattern. Thats why the sell a special adapter/tb-spacer combo. If you get an Edl. or Holl. you should be fine w/ most any aftermarket intake manifold

 

some of the performer intakes are q-jet and egr equiped. look for the big and little holes where the carb bolts up like rice killer said. you could possibly sell it on ebay and buy a new one. if you buy new and are stuck on removing the qj i would go with the edelbrock 600 and rpm intake with a new dist. gm performance sells a nice one

 

After removing the carb and intake and replacing it with a non cc set up, the cp does not matter any more correct? if it is throwing codes they would have no affect on the way the engine runs? what could I take off at that point? could i leave it on if I wanted to? there is the stuff by the thermo stat the egr vavle and stuff like that. Any info would be great.

 

I just did this too. The computer and all the sensors it hooks to are useless. I personally got under my dash, pulled the ECM, and pulled the entire harness out through the "firewall" (it was more by the passenger fender), into the engine bay and unhooked all the connectors. It got rid of alot of clutter under the hood.

 

To clear up a little confusion:

All you need is the carb and distributor.

You DO NOT NEED AN INTAKE! The Performer spreadbore (QJet design) and Performer spreadbore w/EGR accept both a spreadbore or a squarebore carb. The standard squarebore Performer will not accept a spreadbore carb.

However, if you go the non CCQJet route, I would highly recommend the Performer RPM manifold. They keep the same low end torque as the Performer (maybe even a little more), and keep on going past 6000RPM, making an honest 20HP in most very mild 350 apps. And forget about the spacer or adapter. The spacer with the Performer RPM WILL NOT clear the hood. Finally, if you do go the Performer RPM route, look into buying an L-88 dropbase aircleaner base. It's by far better than any other.

Leaving the ECM and wiring intact will throw several codes, but will not affect anything, as the ECM can no longer control either fuel or timing.

And finally, while I've never run any of the carbs you've been looking into, I've heard of nothing but problems with the Street Avenger series and just about all Edelbrock carbs. Most people I know run the Demon stuff, and love it.

 

So the sensors that stick out of the manifold and the o2 knock and all that stuff is no longer used, I can either leave it or take it off? do they sell kits that I can use to block off the egr, and plug the intake, where those sensors went? the carcoal caister is not need any more either? What about the electric fan what options do i have? if I leave it hooked up the ecm will it still work with the other stuff disconnected? what else could I do?

I am also going to be running adaytona style hood, so I will have plenty of room for the spacer, are they worth it? if so which one?

thanks

 

A regular 1" spacer will do you fine. They sell them at your local auto parts store,thats where my buddy got his. On his,you can keep the 4 holes in the middle for more torque or you can take it out and have in big and open for more top end pull.

If you take out the EGR and knock sensor you can buy plugs at Lowes or Home Depot in the screws/nuts/bolts section.

As for the fans,you can leave the computer in there just for them,get a JET fan switch control that will turn it on/off at a certain temp (around $50),OR you could just wire it to a switch in the car and do it manually.

JET switch: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

When I ditched the ECM (CCQJet did NOT like the 240* duration cam at all ):

1. Installed pipe plugs in all the unused ports/holes in the intake, head, and block.
2. Removed the charcoal canister and installed a canister style fuel filter on the end of that vent line.
3. I did not have an EGR port to block off. But kits are available through Summit and Jegs. Or you could make one yourself. Not hard really.

RiceKiller87 detailed what you need to do with the fan.

And spacers are definately not a science. It's more of a black art that no one can really predict the outcome. Some work, some don't, and some hurt performance. Every engine combo is different, and they all react differently.