When I bought the car they were *starting* to go now they're toast. I'm planning on a new motor next spring/summer. Will I be ok running like this? Other than burning more oil, will there be any cons? I know they're cheap but I'm in HS so don't have too much time and from what I've heard these take a while to change. Any input appreciated.
-Rippin

 

Keep an eye on your oil level and you'll be fine. My mom used to have a Pontiac with a 305 in it (land yacht) and it ran with bad valve seals for about 3 years before she finally got rid of the car.

 

Wore out valve seals are a common problem with SBC engine and are not a major concern. You will get some smoke on a cold start up and use a litle oil but thats it. I would venture a guess any SBC with over 50K on it has this problem.

 

What would it cost to have something like this fixed?
Mine are bad also, evident via this video I took:

ftp://68.1.231.79/smoke.avi

 

Seals are cheap, labor is expensive. You have to pull the valve covers and most of the valvetrain...it's somewhat time comsuming. If you have time and a little mechanical ability do it yourself.

 

Closest Iv ever torn into a motor is changing the valve cover gaskets on a 1500 with a 350...

 

you could try using some oil treatments like Lucas to help slow up the burning, they also sell some addatives to swell oil seals to stop burning.

 

Can't you do the valve seals with just the valve covers off? Take off the rockers, overhead spring compressor to remove the retainer/locks and then just take the seal off and put a new one on?

Sounds like a 6 pack of bud and about 3-6 hours of your time...valve seals are dirt cheap, you'll spend more on oil then the seals over time id think

 

I know they're dirt cheap but I was under the impression you had to take all the spark plugs out, put something in there (some kind of tool or something w/ an air compressor) that would hold the valves up then do it. Anyone care to give me a "how-to?"
-Rippin

 

Right down the firing order.
Find TDC on one of the cylinders.
Once the piston is at TDC the vavle won't drop. Pull teh valve spring and you're golden .

No need to pull a spark plug.
Ryan

 

Why wouldn't it drop? Wouldn't it at least drop a little bit? Just out of curiousity...

 

It'll still drop enough that it'll be hard to get the keepers off, but if you get a good strong magnet that'll fit under the spring compressor you can hold the valve up with it to remove the keepers. It'll be a little tougher to put it back together but it's possible. I personally would rather use a compression gauge adapter and fill the cylinder with air....it's less trouble on my engine (no A/C or emissions junk.)

If you don't have access to compressed air, you can bring the piston almost to TDC and then stuff some thin rope through the plug hole. One you get some in there bring the piston up till it stops and the rope will hold the valves shut.

 

an old indian touhgt me this trick. Take about 8" of 1/2" choths line rope,pull the plug, insert the rope as much as possible with a couple of inches hanging out, bring the piston to the top,pull the retainer,replace the seal,and reverse the prosidjure to reinstall.


T.