3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

Transmission Flush & Rearend Build

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 05:08 PM
  #1  
KnightRider350's Avatar
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From: Madison, WI
Transmission Flush & Rearend Build

Ok guys, I'm draining my transmission fluid out and replacing it with redline...how many quarts of redline should I buy?

Rebuilding my 10 bolt... I got the ratech complete gear install kit, motive pro-street 4:10 gears, TA stud cover girdle and stud kit... What else do I need to make this rearend beefy? I don't want to spend more then a hundred dollars or so beyond what I've already put into it, unless its something of massive importance...

If you can, please include links to where I can order the things you recommend, or at least a general pricetag, etc.

Thanks again guys.

Have a fun summer.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 05:16 PM
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Marc 85Z28's Avatar
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1. That's not a trans flush. That's a drain and fill. You're only removing whats in the pan, roughly 4-5 quarts. You should do an entire flush. There are some DIY methods out there (as usual a search yields good results), but I'd recommend taking it to a shop or dealer to have it done. Expensive, but well worth it!

2. The 4.10s will hurt the rears durability. The gears can only be so large, so increasing tooth count (higher numerical gears) means the teeth are smaller and weaker. Welding the tubes to the housing is a proven method of strengthening the rear, and cost effective too!
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 05:52 PM
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solid pinion spacer, much stronger and will save you time and from busting your *** on the install.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 06:03 PM
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KnightRider350's Avatar
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Where can I get the solid pinion spacer and how much will it cost me?

I know the 4:10's will hurt my rearend reliability... I'm assuming its even worse that its a 2 series carrier, not 3... but I'm just trying to make it work. I'm not going to be TOO hard on the car with the gears in there...so I'm hoping it'll last at least fairly long.

Anyone want to take a guess as to how long it'll last? Stage II shift kit, about 300 horsepower motor after the cam... I only drive it (cruising) friday and saturday nights. Mostly just idling along at 35 MPH...the occasional hard launch up to 70 or so.

By "weld the tubes to the housing" do you mean the axle tubes??

Thanks for the help guys.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 06:18 PM
  #5  
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Kiss your cruising mpg goodbye. Been there, done that and not going back.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 07:32 PM
  #6  
KnightRider350's Avatar
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yeah I know... heh, you already yelled at me for the 4:10's aklim. :P

In my figuring though, when I blow the 700R up, I'll replace it with the T56...and then the 4:10s'll be JUST right.
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:04 AM
  #7  
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Originally posted by KnightRider350
By "weld the tubes to the housing" do you mean the axle tubes??

Thanks for the help guys.
Yup, axle tubes to differential housing. One of the main issues to address with the 10 bolt is flex, which both the heavy duty cover and welding the tubes help considerably.
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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From: Mooresville, NC
Originally posted by KnightRider350
T56...and then the 4:10s'll be JUST right.
Uh Huh Uh Huh

Other than welding the tubes, you've got it covered. Most vendors will have a solid pinion spacer. I think that's the same as a solid crush sleeve. Check www.ThunderRacing.com

NOTE: Love the comment "I'm not going to be TOO hard on the car with the gears in there" Right Brant, keep thinking that Haha good luck man!
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 02:13 PM
  #9  
KnightRider350's Avatar
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I searched through TR and couldn't find that solid pinion spacer you guys were talking about... And damnit rippin, it took me like ten minutes to realize that was you. :P

And uh, yeah, he's right. Nix that last sentence and replace it with "I plan to beat the **** out of it, how do I make it stronger?" lol
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:18 PM
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You will need the TA cover. It has supports for the end caps. They also have some welded contraption to make it even stronger. For max strength, go with a Ford 9 in.
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