Umm...self explanitory. Give me a list. Im looking to drop a few tenths.

 

Yeah, I know there already listed but;
1) First, set the minimum air bleed, or idle speed(uncorrected).
To do this you need to access the on board diagnostics by shorting terminals A & B as checking codes. Then after waiting 30sec or more, remove the square plug at the IAC on the throttle body. This will have seated the pintle and will keep it seated until you set the correct curb idle speed. Remove the short and Start the engine, and adjust screw on throttle body, it might not like to run like this until properly adjusted. I usually start with a high idle and work my way down. After you're done, shut it off and reconnect the IAC plug and restart, it may run a little rough or surge until it re-learns.

2)Make sure the TPS sensor is set properly;you car = .54 volts at idle , when backprobed, and at least 4.20 volts at WOT. You may have to "oval-out" the mounting screw holes to achieve this, just depends...

3) Coolant bypass; remove the coolant lines at the throttle body and connect the two together. You can use some kind of tubing or pipe.

4) Remove the baffles in the bottoms of the air filter housings.

5) Remove the MAF Screens; carefully cut the plastic around the perimeter about 1/8th inch from the edges, this should let the whole screen just "pop" off.

6) Port plenum; Open the throttle blades without the inlet hose attached so you can see behind the throttle blades, you'll need a flashlight. You'll see flat wall-like obstructions at the lower 1/2 of the plenum inlet, grind them down to the shape of the throttle bore.

7)Adjust ignition timing(with stock chip) up to 10* which still should be safe from detenation. You can run it a few times and see if it runs better at + or - 2* from that, or scan for knock retard if you can scan it. You want to advance it as much as possible w/o knock-retard or detenation.

8)Remove excess weight like all of the spare tire equipment etc.

9)Adjust front tire air pressure up to 40 psi and the rear tire pressure down to 20ish.

these are a few, I can't think good right now...sleepy....

 

In some cars this does not work. So becarefull.
I have an 87 Irocz & this is what I have done.
Found a Hypertech chip on ebay for cheap Changed it out.
Cut the bottom of the air box off.
But K&Ns (buy a set from summit for like $50)
& in the prosses of doing a home made Ram air system.


I dragrace on street tires & this makes me slower. What I try to do is run the car on 30psi all the way around. & I normally get somewhere between 14.7s &low 14.8s. I have gotten a 14.66 & a 14.68 when the weather was really good.

 

some cheaps things you can get.
an air foil
a vett trans servo
k&N filters

you can remove the seats for the track only.
I heard you can unplug your alternator before you race for 2 tenths, but don't know if it is a good idea. I tried it and nothin went wrong.
do a tune up. plugs wires, air filter ,oil, o2 sensor.
hollow your cat if you want to.
octane boost ( i don't think it does anything) worth a try i guess
use a whole can of throttle body cleaner on your intake, you would be suprised how much oil gets stuck in there.
ice down ur intake before you race. make sure your engine is running at a good temp.
you can also buy a cam for cheap.
the home made ram air sutep will help a few tenths, especially with some K&N's, someone sell it on ebay for $40
I mean if you got money to spend there is a lot more to do.
theres not much to do for free, but try some of this stuff out for now and when you want to go faster i can tell you some mods that won't burn a whole in your pocket.

 

hollow that cat and snip some unneeded belts

 

taking out my cats and replacing it with a straight pipe gave me .3 on the 1/4 mile...
i gained .1 by takeing out my air filter at the track, too (i have a ram air setup)

i wouldnt suggest running without a filter on the street, but if your going down the track, i doubt anything will happen.