agh i love how everyone has such a big ego that they dont want to listen to anyone else. The idea "1fastformula" is trying to make
okay yes doing a tb bypass doesnt help if your air box cant take any more air then it already is. But the idea is that if you do the minor mod now since you dont have much money, when you do have the money for a new air box youll get a greater improvement with it if you have the tb bypass then without it. Thats just kind of common sense i dont see how you argue with that.

 

Thank you Doug.

Say you gut your airbox. No gain...does that make it wasted time? No. Because in a year or 2, when you swap heads and port the TPI rig, your engine may need more air than a factory airbox can provide. Since you already gutted the airbox, you have less restriction than a guy who did the same head and port job but didn't gut his airbox. It's not a matter of adding power, it's a matter of adding potential.




And incidentally, CFM is a unit of measure for airflow, it has nothing to do with whether an engine is carbed or injected.

 

I never said the airbox gut was bad, just not to expect any gains from it on a stock setup. Read closer. The TB bypass was said to be done for convenience not for HP.

BTW, the stock gutted airbox has been shown to outflow a 3" CAI. So, you really don't need a new airbox unless you've got a firebird.

What's being debunked is much of the preconceived notion that doing such and such freebie mods will make you faster. Other $ mods such as putting an aftermarket ignition on a stock engine too. Sorry to tell you that it won't, and in most cases would be money better spent elsewhere on a real mod. Other mods can also be detrimental, such as blindly bumping timing up to 10* BTDC or relocating the MAT sensor on a SD system (without PROM tuning).

Hey, it's your car, if you want to remain ignorant and not doubt some of the hearsay that people spread like gospel, then more power to you. If you want to learn more, start looking into the ECM code. Many of these freebie mods can be explained as you monitor the sensors and begin to understand what the car is really doing.

I'll say it again, the airbox mod is one of the few free mods that have merit, but don't expect any gains on a stock car.

 

Actually....I still have the TPI on the crate motor. Vortec intake manifold from Jim Pace makes it happen.

Later

 

If the TB Bypass is useless, how do you explain a dyno proven 6.3 RWHP and 7.1 RWTQ?

Here's the graph.
www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm

All LT1 guys swear by this mod..try asking about it in the LT1 tech section.

 

I can't because I don't know what condition the guy's car was in and I don't know anything about his LT1 and the LT1's ECM and if he had any other mods going for him. What was his AFR on his runs as read by a WB O2? Simple fact, I don't have a 4th gen. All I know is that 4th gens have MAF and MAP, unlike the 3rd gens, and that's all I know about the sensors. But that's all pointless because this is a third gen, not a 4th gen we are talking about.

Since you are so willing to believe it, explain it to me please.

I know how a third gen's ECM works on the speed density system. I know what the sensors pick up, so please, enlighten me. The best the !TB will do is to lower the temp picked up by the MAT sensor, as explained in my first post. The decrement is trivial, doubtful that it will even pick up a 0.5 degree variation because of the heat soak from the engine on the MAT sensor and the velocity of the air moving through the TB. The speed that the air moves is too fast for something as small as a TB to have an impact on the air temperature.

Anyhow, I digress. ASSUMING you get a lower temperature as advertised, and assuming that lower temperature is drastic, as advertised. What the lower temperature does is make the ECM run a tad richer. If you are running lean, then you will get a small gain from it. If you are already tuned, it doesn't do anything but make you have to retune because you are now running rich or not having a 128 BLM.

However, since I've done this mod for the sake of convenience when I take apart my intake, and have monitored my sensors and didn't gain anything from it on a dyno, it's BS.

 

Nice numbers for a Modded LT-1 . Now back to the subject on 3rd Gen TPI's, you are NOT going to get that gain on a STOCK TPI.
I agree with 91Z28, you can not compare a LT-1 & TPI they are both different.
But if it makes everyone happy, do the BS mods and add up all the gains for your Butt Dyno. Because thats the only place its going to show up on a stock TPI engine.

 

I think I started World War 3! Its alright though, theres alot of good info being posted.

 

I also think its BS. People wanna do that to lower the temp of the air going through the TB, but the air goes through so fast it doesn't even have time to heat it up.

 

it works do it everybody says no but doing all those freebie things snipping off uneeded belts a tune up with good **** and a cat back and air foil and k and ns made me 232 hp with 319rwt and i know somebodys gonna have something to say about those numbers but boys the dyno dosent lie the colder the air the better. as far it moves so fast it dosent heat up i want the person who said that to turn on thier stove high power and run thier hand across it really fast and then tell me what happens

 

since i feel like being a pain im going to actually depending on where you took your car to get it dynod some places are asses and dont calibrate it right so you get wrong numbers just thought id throw that out there. Also what engine do you run 232 hp isnt that much

 

yeah man, the chassis dyno at my school is soooo off. we ran my buddys crx just for ***** and giggles and the dyno said it was putting out 47 hp. the factory numbers are only like 80 or 90 hp but its still way off. the dyno wasnt really made for hp pulls, its main purpose is for emissions, driveability problems and all that good stuff.

 

i hope the dyno wasnt off i paid big bucks to use it. im running the 305 tpi.